CHOWDER. CRIMPED. POTTED. PICKLED.

BROILED. BAKED. BOILED. FRIED.

FISH are not regarded any more nutritious than flesh or fowl. Indeed, hardly as much so as a good quality of beef or mutton. Fish not entirely fresh are poor eating. They are generally in best condition shortly before spawning, and are thought to be unfit for human food immediately after spawning. For invalids, white fish, such as cod and haddock, etc., are the best. Flounders and tur-bot are also good. Flat fish will keep the longest. Salmon, mackerel, trout, and herring decompose quickly. The tur-bot will improve by keeping a few hours before cooking.

Notice that the body of the fish is firm and the eyes full, and the gills red.

Do not allow fish to remain but a short time in water. It makes them soft and flabby.

To thrw out frozen fish, lay them in cold water till the ice cleaves from the body.

Large fish are usually boiled or baked. Small ones, fried or broiled.

A fish is scaled more easily by plunging for an instant in hot water.

Fish should be carefully cleaned before cooking. Any coagulated blood should be scraped away with a knife, and they should be freed from scales. But if washed beyond what is necessary, the flavor of the fish is diminished.

The mode of cooking fresh and salt-water fish is substantially the same, and the recipes given furnish all necessary information.

The various sauces called for in the following recipes will be found in the chapter on "SAUCES."

For fish croquettes, see "CROQUETTES."

SMALL FISH.

SMALL FISH.

Fish Chowder

Fresh cod or haddock are regarded as best for chowder, although our common lake fish may be used. Cut into 2 inch pieces. Fry some slices of salt pork crisp, in an iron pot. Take out and chop fine, leaving the fat. Put a layer of fish in this fat, then a layer of split crackers, then some bits of the pork, some thick slices of peeled potatoes and some chopped onion, and pepper. Then another layer of fish, with a repetition of the other articles. Cover with boiling water and cook half an hour. Skim it out in the dish in which it is to be served, thicken the gravy with flour, add a little catsup, boil up and pour over the chowder. Remove the bones if convenient, when dishing up.

Crimped Salmon

Cut freshly-caught salmon into slices 1 1/2 inches thick. Wash in strong salt and water. Lay on a fish-plate, if you have one, and plunge into boiling salted water. It will be done in 10 or 15 minutes. Serve immediately with lobster sauce or plain melted butter.

Potted Fish

Miss Juliet Corson.

Remove the fins and head of the fish, clean well, cut in slices an inch thick, pack it in a little jar having a cover, in layers, and between the layers put 1 teaspoon each of whole cloves, and whole peppers, 2 blades of mace, a bay leaf, a tablespoon of salt. When all is used, cover with vinegar and water, half and half. Put over it a buttered paper, or else fasten the jar cover on with paste. Put in a hot oven and bake 4 or 5 hours. The bones will have entirely disappeared. Eat cold or hot.