Clean and split down the back. Wipe carefully, season well with salt and pepper, and place on a gridiron over a clear, hot fire. Turn, and when done, lay on a hot dish; butter well, and serve on buttered toast.
Clean, truss, and stuff the quails. Parboil for 10 or 15 minutes. Line the sides of a deep pan with rich pie-paste. In the bottom put a couple of slices of salt pork or bacon cut into small pieces. Then some slices of hard-boiled eggs, with butter and pepper. Then the quails (after removing the cords), with a sprinkling of minced parsley. The juice of a lemon is an improvement. Put bits of butter rolled in flour over the birds, then a layer of slices of egg and bits of pork. Pour in the water in which they were parboiled, and cover with pie-paste, leaving an opening in the center. Bake about an hour.
Steam quail until nearly done, then roast in the oven to a nice brown, basting often with melted butter in water. Serve on buttered toast. Very nice.
Many excellent cooks do not draw them, asserting that the trail should be left in, even by those who do not like it, and removed after it is served. They claim that the flavor of the bird is much impaired if the trail is taken out before cooking. It looks rather plausible, as they are said to live by suction, have no crop, and a stomach only the size of a bullet. The trail, head, and neck are regarded as great delicacies by epicures. For my own eating, I could not cook them without drawing.
Divide down the back, put in the oven, salt and pepper them and baste with melted butter. Garnish with slices of lemon.
Split down the back, wipe with a damp cloth, and broil over a clear fire. Rub on butter, pepper, and salt when done. Serve on a hot platter and help each person to half a bird.
Clean, draw, and stuff with simple bread crumbs well seasoned with pepper and salt, and moistened with sweet cream or melted butter. Sew them up. Tie a small, thin slice of salt pork around the bird. Place in a dripping-pan and baste with butter and water. Put slices of buttered toast under them before taking up, and serve with them.