"One of the last authorities on the dying art of cookery in France, the last eloquent writer thereupon, the Marquis de Cherville, published a few days ago a learned article on Dumas pere from the gastronomical point of view; and, speaking of his proficiency and of his fidelity to tradition, said: ' Never would that genuine artist have allowed himself in the confection of a sauce, to accept bouillon as a substitute for glace de viande.' And this opens up to the uninitiated a vista as wide as fhe backgrounds of Leonardo da Vinci, the infinite whereof remains amystery still to the profane. Imagination is wanting in the female cook; and therefore does no woman ever make a jus. She stops at the soup and the bouilli. But, if your purse permits, you must sacrifice both of these to make a jus, or that glace de viande for which Dumas would accept no substitute. When twelve or fourteen quarts of water are reduced to half, and the entire ingredients are taken away, then begins the 'reduction,' in good earnest, and from the remaining essence you obtain your fond de jus".