Stewing is done by gentle simmering in a small quantity of liquid; by this means the juices and gelatinous substances in the products are partially softened and dissolved in the liquid; the savor and juices of the contents are divided between the article thus cooked and the liquid. Chef Meyer notices three varieties of stews: the brown stew, known as the ragout, or haricot; the white stew, as blanquette, or fricassee, and miscellaneous, or mixed stews, as the Irish stews and Hungarian goulash. The color of the brown stew is secured by browning, or sautéing, the meat before the water is added. The meat for a white stew is put over a fire with cold water to cover, and the cooking proceeds very slowly until the boiling point is reached; when this has been well established, the cooking is completed at the simmering point. When the meat is tender, the vegetables used for flavoring are removed, and the sauce is thickened with a roux, or with flour mixed smoothly with water to pour. Oftentimes stews are thickened by the addition of barley, rice, oatmeal, and potatoes, and a garnish of vegetables, as small boiled onions, green peas, potato balls, or slices, or mushrooms are added. A close-covered saucepan, or a fireproof casserole, are the best utensils for making stews. The cooking may be done in the oven, or on the top of the range.