Very young veal may be known by its small and tender bones, the flesh having a bluish tinge and a soft, flabby appearance. When from two to three months old the flesh is firm and has a pinkish tinge, and the bones are hard. It is then in its prime. At best veal is an indigestible meat and contains little nutriment. It has very little flavor and needs to be well seasoned and thoroughly cooked to be at all palatable. Despite the prejudice which prevails, however, the excellent and attractive dishes of which veal forms the basis are almost without number.

The lower part of the leg, or knuckle, and all the gristly portions are used for soup. Cutlets or steaks, the fillet and the fricandeau or cushion are cut from the thickest part of the leg. The loin is used for chops or roasts, the breast for roasts and the neck for stews or for soup. The head is also used for soup, the heart for stewing and pickling, and the liver in many ways.

Roast Veal

Wipe the meat, dredge with salt, pepper and flour, and place it in a pan, pouring a little water in the bottom of the pan. Roast from twenty to thirty minutes for every pound of veal. -Baste every twenty minutes with half a pint of warm water into which has been melted a tea-spoonful of butter, using the liquid in the bottom of the pan for basting as soon as there is sufficient. Make a gravy the same as for any roast, using the liquid in the pan.

Stuffed Breast Of Veal

Make an incision between the ribs and the meat to form a cavity, in which to place the stuffing. The butcher will, however, prepare the veal for stuffing, if ordered to do so. Use for the stuffing

One cupful of bread-crumbs. One-quarter pound of fat 'salt pork. One tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram. One tea-spoonful of thyme. One tea-spoonful of salt. One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.

The pork should be chopped very fine and will make about a large table-spoonful when chopped. Butter may be used in its place, if preferred. Roast the same as directed in the preceding receipt.

Veal Cutlets

Wipe the cutlets, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, dip them first in beaten egg and then in fine bread or cracker-crumbs, and fry in drippings until brown. The cutlets should be thoroughly browned on both sides. Place them on a platter, add a little water to the gravy in the pan, and thicken slightly with a table-spoonful of flour wet in a little water. Strain the gravy, if it is not entirely smooth.

Veal And Ham

These are often dressed together. Heat the frying-pan hot, and fry the ham, using no fat unless the meat is unusually lean. When the ham is cooked, place it on the serving dish, and cook the veal in the juices left from the ham, frying without covering until it is a deep brown. After the veal is done, add a little water to the gravy, season with pepper, and pour it without thickening over the meat. The gravy will scarcely need salt, unless the ham is rather fresh.