The Boursault and De Lisle roses have been suggested as the best stocks for pot-culture, and if grown in a rich sheltered soil, and cut down for stooling, some of the shoots of the second year may be layered the same season. If the end of the layer is tied carefully to a stick, it will allow a bud to be inserted in a few weeks. The tongue being cut on the layer's upper side will save the shoot from breaking. Mr. Reid, of Noble Thorpe, near Barnsley, from whom these directions come, recommends a piece of clay or a small stone to be inserted in the opening, to prevent its adhering before roots are formed. About the end of October these early layers will be rooted, and may be potted. Only one bud to be inserted on a stock. Many varieties, as Bourbon, Noisette,China, Tea-scented, etc, if well managed, will bloom beautifully in the spring and summer following.

Mr. Jos. Baumann recommends the seeds of the dog rose to be sown in February, the seedlings, cut back to two eyes, potted in forty-eights next autumn; plunged in a border until early in July; to be budded at the end of August; headed down in November; potted in thirty-twos; protected in a frame during winter; started by dung heat in January, and the shoots when three inches long pinched back to one inch, this being repeated two or three times to form a good head. In autumn, prune and shift to larger pots, to remain for some years. These stocks produce very enduring and bright flowers. Rosa Banksia, herberifolia, brac-teata, and multiflora, do best on Quatre Saisons stocks.

In budding on the Boursault, and indeed on any other rose, an excellent mode is, in April, to tongue a strong shoot, pass it through a forty-eight pot, until the tongue is in the centre, and then press the pot full of a mixture of rotten dung and sand. It may be budded at the time, but whenever done, the shoot should be headed down at the time of budding to within two eyes of the bud. - Gard. Chron.

Mr. (Glenny recommends the stocks to be planted in a rich stiffish ground, two feet apart in the row, and three feet between the rows, with a stake every ten feet, and rods of sufficient strength, reaching from one to another, to secure them against the effects of the wind. Plant no deeper than just to cover the crown of the roots. When growing commences rub off, twice a week, all the buds that are not wanted, but let the highest remain, for a stock six feet high often produces no shoots higher than half its height. In the first week of July, the thorns should be removed from those places on the stocks intended for budding roses. If they be not taken away, the operation is rendered needlessly troublesome; and it is best done now as time is thus allowed for the bark's healing. The best time for budding the rose is towards the end of July, a dormant eye being employed, just after a fall of rain, and when no strong dry wind is moving. An attention to these circumstances insures that the sap is flowing freely, and avoids a rapid evaporation, so often preventing success. But budding may be in spring, if the buds are extracted with a small portion of wood adhering to them.

For this purpose, scions are cut before winter, and stuck into the ground till the moment when in spring the bark of the stock will run. To prepare the bud, we make firstly, a transverse cut into the wood a little below an eye, which incision is met by a longer cut downwards, commencing at a short distance above the eye, care being taken that a portion of wood is removed with the bark. This bud is inserted into the bark of the stock, which is cut like an inverted T,the horizontal edges of this cut in the stock, and of the bud, must be brought into the most perfect contact with each other, and then bound with waterproof bast, without, however, applying grafting clay. Eight days after the insertion of the bud, the stock is pruned down to the branch, which is immediately above the opposite side, and this branch is stopped by being cut clown to two or three eyes; all the side wood is destroyed, and when the bud has pushed its fifth leaf, compel it to branch by pinching its extremity; it will then flower in September of the same year.

You may also bud the rose in the spring without waiting till the bark separates, by placing the bud with some wood on it, in a niche made in the stock, similar to what would be formed by taking an eye for budding from it in the manner above described, and into which it is fitted exactly with a slight pressure. It is recommended to make the cut for the niche where there is already a bud on the stock; when placed, the bud is then bound with bast and covered with mastic. - Gard. Mag.