This section is from the book "The Gardener V1", by William Thomson. Also available from Amazon: The New Organic Grower: A Master's Manual of Tools and Techniques for the Home and Market Gardener.
Plant your temporary Vines in the border out of their pots. You should fruit them two or three years to enable you to be merciful with the permanent ones, and this you cannot do if you keep them in pots.
Sir, - Could you or any of your readers of the 'Gardener ' tell me if syringing trees with water on a frosty night would take off scale. A. G.
[We do not think it will. What say any of our readers? - Ed].
Sir, - I am desirous of obtaining, through the medium of your interesting periodical, some information as to the propagation of the Mulberry. A very fine old tree of this species grows in a courtyard at the back of the house I am now living in, and it usually bears a large crop of fruit, which this year has been peculiarly abundant and well ripened. Between thirty and forty years ago some half-dozen young trees were raised by cuttings from this Mulberry-tree, and these are now vigorous young trees, all growing in this neighbourhood; but, except in one instance, none of these have ever ripened any fruit. They are covered with small green Mulberries in the early summer, but these all fall off before they are half the proper size. I wish much to know the cause of this, and if I could raise any young plants with better success. I enclose my card, and I remain, Sir, Lancaster, November 3d, 1868. A Subscriber.
[Will any of our correspondents reply to this communication? - Ed].
Dear Sir, - I have a bed (on grass) 80 feet long and about 5 feet wide. I propose to plant it next year in the manner recommended by Mr Simpson, at page 495 of the last volume of the 'Gardener,' thus: The centre is to be two rows of Christine; on each side of it, one row of Variegated Alyssum, with an edging of Oxalis corniculata next the grass. Now I should be glad if Mr Simpson would inform me through your columns,
1. Whether he thinks the bed would be too long for the above combination.
2. At what distance in the row he plants the Oxalis? and also at what distance the line of Oxalis should be from the Alyssum?
3. Does Mr Simpson sow the Oxalis on bottom-heat?
4. Are two rows of Christine sufficient?
I remain, etc, L. M. N. R.
[Will Mr Simpson kindly reply to our correspondent? - Ed].
The following will suit you: -
Staticelatifolia, Aquilegia alpina, Campanula speciosa, Lilium candidum, Oenothera macrocarpa, Helenium Hooperii, Dictamnus of sorts, Ornithogalum pyramidale, Anthericum liliastrum, Dielytra spectabilis, Spiraea Aruncus, Lupi-nus polyphyllus.
Campanula grandis, Tritoma Uvaria v. glaucescens, Achillea Eupa-torium, Pentstemon speciosus, Statice eximea, Lythrum roseum superbum, Heli-anthus multiflorus fl.-pi., Lilium chalcedouicum, Eryngium amethystinum, Delphinum alopecuroides, Œnothera grandiflora, Chrysobactron Hookerii.
The wet sunless summer of last year is doubtless the cause of your comparative failure. Push them on with a high temperature in the afternoon and evening, and air liberally by day. Let the moisture be moderately supplied, and do not let the growths ramble too much, which they will be disposed to do, the crop being so light. If well ripened this season, you will be certain, all other- things being equal, to have a good crop next year. In such a house as yours, with the Vines rather crowded, it was next to impossible to ripen late Vines last year.