We have seen that the soil best suited to the Cherry is a good friable loam, moderately rich, neither too heavy nor too light. The Morello and Bigarreau will, however, do well in, and in fact prefer, a good heavy loam. Mr M'Intosh, in his ' Book of the Garden,' page 538, says that "we have seen the best crops and the healthiest trees we ever saw lately growing in a deep strong clay, while we remember well that the oldest Cherry-orchards in England are planted on deep sandy loams, often resting on a rocky bottom. Generally speaking, however, this tree thrives best on a good deep loam, and worst of all on thin gravelly soils." From this it will be observed that although his experience agrees with my own, yet the best trees ever he had seen were growing upon soil of a very different nature. Those having a soil more clayey than I have recommended, need not fear the result with such a high authority on the side of the soil; yet where such a soil as I have recommended is easily procured, it should be preferred. My preference for a good friable loam is because the Cherry requires a considerable amount of moisture, especially the strong-growing varieties.

It is a well-known fact that stiff clay is not retentive of moisture, for water passes rapidly from it, leaving it in a hard and baked condition; also light gravelly soils pass the water too rapidly through them, so that in a few days they become dry and light like dust. Medium soils retain moisture best, for they are open enough to receive it, and retain it for some considerable time; and not this only, but they are also more open to the action of the atmosphere, which, at night especially, contains a considerable amount of moisture, whereas stiff clayey loams are almost impenetrable to the atmosphere.

The best time for planting the Cherry is in autumn, say the months of September or October. They may also be planted any time during winter from October till the end of March; but the advantage of an early-planted tree over one planted in spring is equivalent to about one year's growth. If the trees get established before winter sets in, they will grow and make splendid wood; whereas if they are not planted till far on in spring, in all probability they will make small useless wood, which may not thoroughly ripen, and consequently will be useless. Before planting, it will be necessary to have plenty of soil ready for the operation, if the natural soil is not to do duty for the young trees. As Cherries delight in deep soil, I would recommend that it be from 1 1/2 to 2 feet in depth. The manure should be good and well decomposed, and mixed regularly from top to bottom of the soil for at least 3 feet further than the roots reach at the planting season. In the case of making new borders, it would be as well only to add the new soil year after year as it seems necessary, so as to provide a fresh supply of food for the young rootlets just as they require it.

In the case of planting trees where the old soil is to be used again, I would recommend the whole border to be thoroughly trenched right to the bottom, mixing in a good supply of rich manure throughout. If possible, the cultivator should get a little fresh material to plant the trees with, as it will give them a start from which they will derive much benefit. One good cart-load to every young tree will be found of great value. Whether this be done or not, a large hole should be dug, so that all the roots may be nicely spread out into position. After this the soil may be spread and the hole filled in as already directed, pressing it gently with the foot to give it a firmness about the roots. Mulching for protection from dry weather in summer is very necessary for the first year or two, and in very dry localities it will be found of considerable utility to continue the practice regularly.

The distances which should divide Cherry-trees when planted must be regulated according to circumstances. In some localities they grow into huge proportions, while in others they remain comparatively small trees. In a locality where the Cherry succeeds remarkably well I would recommend that they be planted at distances varying from 20 to 25 feet - a rider and a dwarf fan alternately, so that in the course of a few years the rider would be removed, and the fan left for the permanent tree. Thus each tree would have a space of from 40 to 50 feet of wall to fill. Such a space is filled by almost every Cherry of age in the garden here, upon walls varying from 15 to 17 feet in height. In localities where the Cherry does not thrive so well, the half, or even less than the half, of these distances will be sufficient. In planting, the height of the wall must also be taken into consideration, to regulate the distances. Where the Cherry is planted as a standard, the large-growing varieties, such as the Bigarreau, should be placed from 25 to 30 feet apart, while the smaller-growing kinds may not be more than 15 to 20 feet apart.

If the trees are to be allowed to grow to full size, 5 to 10 feet more may be allowed; but handsome, well-formed, and medium-sized trees, planted at something like these distances, will be more useful and look better than trees of greater proportions.

The situation for the Cherry as a wall-tree must be regulated according to the kinds to be grown. For very early fruit the south wall is unquestionably the best, but for fine fruit I consider the east aspect the best, no matter the varieties. Here we have them planted on every aspect - north, south, east, and west; and I am bound to say the finest fruit and largest crops have invariably been produced upon the trees having the eastern exposure, and these include May Duke, Bigarreau, and Morello. It may be as well to notice here, however, that the Morello will not succeed well on a south wall. The next best to an east aspect is the north. Where a long continution of fruit is required, it is well to have a tree or two on the south, and one or two on the north, but we would recommand that the principal stock be planted on the east aspect.

Birds are remarkably fond of the Cherry, and it is necessary to have them protected with nets. Those in common use are old herring-nets, which, if not broken, answer the end in view very well. They are about 1d. per square yard, and at this price will last for four or five years, if not allowed to rot and go to waste by lying upon the ground. The best plan to adopt for the protection of Cherries is to plant the border in front of them with either late-keeping varieties of Gooseberries or Red Currants, and cover the wall and bushes under one net. For this purpose it is as well to put in posts about 4 feet high along near the front of the border, and along the top of these nail a rail for the net to pass over; while another rail should be nailed along the bottom, having hooks or nails to fasten the net to. Along the coping of the wall there ought to be hooks, to which the net should be attached, and when drawn over the top rail and fastened to the bottom one, both Cherries and Gooseberries or Currants are thoroughly protected from the birds.

As has been already hinted, the exudation of gum on the stem and branches is the only disease to which the Cherry is liable. The causes I have already given for this are undue cutting of root or stem, or injury from the knife, hammer, or nails at the pruning and training seasons. There is no thorough cure for it, so far as I have been able to ascertain, but I would recommend that all affected branches be at once removed. As prevention is better than cure, the best method is to avoid everything which would in the least tend to its production.

The insects that are the greatest enemies to the Cherry cultivator are the red-spider (Acarus telarius), from the want of moisture at the roots; the Aphis cerasi, or Morello Cherry-louse, which is said to be the result of too much moisture, but which is easily destroyed, either by fumigation, or by syringing the tree with tobacco-water. The Tenthredo cerasi is sometimes injurious to the leaves of the tree, into which they fold themselves in order to undergo transition from one stage of existence to another. The Cossus ligniperda, or goat moth, in its caterpillar state, is very destructive to the trees at times. The only cure for the two foregoing is to gather them from the leaves with the hand, and have them at once destroyed.

James M'Millan. (To be continued).