This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
In my last I gave a description of my improved method of "Fruit Bud Grafting." I have also made some improvement upon the method of inarching, as described in the January number of the Horticulturist for 1860, from the Revue Horticole, which is explained by figure 1. The branch or scion, A, is set so that it will lay against the root at c. The bark is pared off at the root, and also the scion, so as to bring the alburnum of each into contact with the other. Where the scion crosses the stock at b, the same operation is performed. The scion and root are tied together as shown, and at b the stock and scion are well wrapped with any material used in budding, and well waxed; or, instead of the wax, I find that drawing up a hill of earth some three inches above where they cross answers every purpose. A ring of bark is taken off at d for the same purpose as described in the directions for spur grafting. After the graft has set, the scion and stock are cut off at the dotted lines at b, and the root at the dotted lines shown thereon, which is planted as a separate tree.
I find inarching a very convenient mode of propagating such trees as do not grow well out of doors from the cutting; also roses and grape vines. B and C, fig. 1, show how it is done. The lower end of the cutting is inserted in the ground, and the upper end inserted under the bark at a a, as described in spur grafting, and tied the same way. After the cuttings have grown one year and struck roots, they are sep rated from the stock, taken up, and planted in the nursery rows. A dozen or more plants may be raised thus around a single mother stock, without injury to it.
I modify the process somewhat when I apply it to the grape. Figure 2 will explain how it is done. A vine or a branch of a vine is laid down, horizontally, and the cuttings, 4 or 5 inches long, containing two or more eyes or buds, arc inserted in the ground. The bark is removed from the cutting where it crosses the vine, and also from the side of the vine, as before described. They are firmly tied together, and cuttings, vines, and all covered with earth, so as to have the upper bud on the scion covered about 1/2 inch. The cuttings may be placed three inches or even less apart along the whole length of the vine. After they have grown one year, they may be taken up, the vine cut into pieces, each having a rooted cutting on it, and the plants are ready for planting out. I should have stated that the proper season for performing all of these o r-ations is at budding time, sooner or later in the summer, depending upon the tree to be operated on. The grape cuttings should be cut in the fall or winter, and kept in a cool place in sand or moss until the first flow of sap is over, in the growing vines, when they may be inarched.
[We should be glad to have Mr. Adair's improvements thoroughly tried. If, in the case of the vine, the union should be a permanent one, a point will have been gained. There will then be an old vine furnished .with scions at intervals, beside the rooted plants in the ground, and this seems to be more than Mr. Adair claims. - Ed].