Most of the kinds grow freely.enough from cuttings placed in sand, tinder a bell-glass or miniature-frame, if taken off soon after they nave done flowering, or, indeed, at any time after January, providing a slight heat above that of the greenhouse can be given them. But, as nice little plants can be got for two or three shillings each, time is saved by buying them. For the first year, we prefer to plant them out in the open soil, as such small plants, except proper pits or very low houses are at hand, have their growth checked so much by the constant dry and wet, wet and dry process inseparable when in such small pots. Another thing, too, is, that small plants, when in pots, have to be shaded in summer, which is detrimental, to the health of most all hard-wooded plants. When planted out, the growth is at least double that of those in pots, however well they may be attended, besides being hardly any trouble, further than .occasional waterings, and stopping the young shoots. A one or two light frame, prepared and filled every summer with various little-hard-wooded plants, in this way, would always keep the place supplied with a new stock, to replace those lost by accident or other causes.

The main thing to attend to in preparing: the soil, is to have enough of vegetable soil (that from the woods is to be preferred), and a good turfy loam, about equal parts of each, and at least a sixth of white sand and charcoal well incorporated with it. This will grow this plant well, whether out or in pot. The surface of the bed should not be above that of the surrounding ground, and lights should be in readiness to put over them in case of very heavy rams. , In the fall, as the roots will have spread somewhat, a little care is necessary in taking them up, to break them as little as possible, although it is unnecessary to lift too much of a ball with them, trusting rather to search for fibres; sufficient ball should be secured, if possible, to nearly fill the pot experience will point out the plant should occupy. They will require no more potting till spring, and, flowering over, they should be then cut in pretty close to the desired shape, and, about the 20th of May, repotted into two sizes larger pot, and plunged in the open ground for the summer.

A few of the shoots likely to grow wild, will occasionally want stopping, otherwise nothing farther is to be done till housed.

The only deviation to be observed each succeeding spring after cutting back, is, when broken again, to reduce the ball an inch or two, and repot into one or two sizes larger pot. This genus is not liable to get sunstruck in summer, and will last many years.

Propagation And Culture #1

The cultivation of the orange is as simple and easy a thing as the cultivation of the peach, and both thrive in Florida with very slight attention, but would richly repay more care than they are now receiving.

The orange will succeed on any soil in Florida, but on the poorest some manure is required. Good high hammock land, however, is best for it. Such land requires no preparation, previous to planting, except clearing and digging the holes. The plowing may be done afterward, and any low-growing crop planted between the rows.

Several methods of establishing orange groves or orchards have been practiced. Some have procured young trees of the variety desired from a nursery. This is a very satisfactory way where but few trees are wanted, and the planter can afford to pay a very high price for them; but orange nurseries are scarce, and the trees far too high priced for extensive planting. Others have commenced by sowing the seeds of the wild fruit and budding the stocks thus procured with the sweet orange, becoming in this way their own nurserymen. This is a judicious course, as the nursing and budding of the wild stocks are very simple and easy operations; I am told that in some cases the seeds of the sweet orange have been sowed, and the trees thus pro-cared transplanted without budding. Such trees will no doubt one of these days astonish as well as disappoint their owners by producing a crop of worthless fruit. The course now most commonly pursued in establishing an orange grove is to procure from some neighboring hammock, where they abound, a sufficient number of wild orange-trees of suitable size and transplant them into the ground prepared for the new orchard. These wild stocks may be from two to three inches in diameter.

They should be carefully dug up (preserving as many roots uninjured as possible), cut off to within two or three feet of the collar, and then planted in large but shallow holes previously prepared. Twenty feet apart each way, giving 108 trees to the acre, is about the right distance, though some are planting much closer. The wild stocks thus planted will soon put out shoots in abundance, all but two or three of which should be kept carefully rubbed off. Those left may be budded as soon as of sufficient size (which will be within three months) with the variety chosen for cultivation. Some of these budded trees will bear in eighteen months from the time of budding, and all, if properly cared for in the mean time, will be in bearing the third year. The transplanting of the wild stocks may be performed at any time, but the winter is generally chosen for the operation. Some, however, prefer August to any other month, and a gentleman who has had considerable experience informs me that he has transplanted orange-trees in that month when loaded with fruit, and that they have matured their crop in their new location and produced another the next year, as if nothing had happened to them.

But the plan by means of which a bearing grove of the sweet orange can be secured in the shortest possible time, is to purchase land with a good wild grove upon it, and selecting suitable trees at the right distance apart, dig up and remove all the others and graft those left where they stand. These trees will commence bearing the next year, and will soon be capable of producing a heavy crop of fruit.