The only advisable method of propagating is by seed. So soon as the soil is in good working order after the breaking-up of frost, prepare aa much surface as may be required, by digging and pulverizing thoroughly with the spade; draw drills one inch deep, and twelve inches apart; sow the seeds thinly, one inch distant, and cover over. In two or three weeks, the young plants will begin to appear like slender threads. Be careful to remove ail weeds, while yet small, throughout the summer, and give a liberal supply of water during dry weather. No further care is needed until the final planting out. With regard to the different varieties, it is contended by some that there are several, and some seedsmen sell their seed as such. True enough it is, that there have, been a number of aorta, and distinct, too; but we may very much doubt, at the present time, if more than one kind is ever recognized when the seed is being gathered. More might be obtained, if care was to be need, for, like most other things, this is liable to sport; and if the seeds of any individual plant that showed better properties than the others were to be kept separate, there would be a probable improvement in the progeny.

This, continued through a series of generations, would most assuredly result in greater excellence.

Propagation #1

The best method I have found for propagating the Fuchsia (not having a propagating house) is, by using three-inch pots with one inch of small crocks in the bottom; a little over one inch of light sandy soil, (leaf mould and sand,) with white sand on the top, level with the pot. By December or January, last season's plants will have started into growth; choose the strongest shoots, from two to three inches long, and only take off the leaves at the joint to be inserted. Now place six or eight cuttings close to the side of the pot, but not too deep, (say half an inch;) press the sand to them, and water with a fine rose pot; put them on a shelf in the warmest part of the greenhouse, and as near as possible to the glass; if convenient, place a small frame or hand-glass over them, so that you can shade them from the sun, for the most important thing in striking Fuchsia cuttings is not to let them wilt. In two or three weeks, if properly attended to, they will be nicely rooted, and fit for potting off into four-inch pots.

By this method I have always been successful.

Propagation #2

The only way to propagate this best of grapes is by layers. It will very seldom live from cuttings. Yours respectfully, H. A. Bizzell.

P. S. - Since writing the above, the Horticulturist has come to me, (the Feb'y No.,) and I am glad to see your defence of our native State in relation to the Isabella grape. If I mistake not, I can gather more facts respecting it. H. A. B.

[The discovery alluded to by Mr. Bizzell we fear will prove more curious than useful. At the north it would avail us nothing, for we are glad to get ripe fruit even from the first berries that set. At the south we fear the drawback suggested by Mr. B. will prove a fatal one, viz., the premature exhaustion of the vine. We do not understand, from the above statement, that more than the usual quantity of grapes ripened, (those first set,) all the others being immature. It is worth while, however, to continue the experiment. - Ed].

Propagation #3

The propagation of Camellias by cuttings is not often resorted to, except for the propagation of those with single flowers, which are used for stocks, upon which the double varieties are inarched; by which course strong specimens can be procured in one year's time. The proper time for this operation is when the Camellias have commenced their growth. It will be needless here to describe the operation of "inarching".