(West Jersey.) The best time to head-back the old forest trees you describe, is immediately before the sap starts. Brush over the wounds, in all cases, with the liquid shellac, (gum-shellac dissolved in alcohol, to (he consistency of thin paint,) described in our work on Fruits.

Pruning #1

Give a careful perusal to the best works on pruning, as much may be done in fine weather to fruit trees and grape-vines; the latter, in ordinary seasons, may be trimmed in February, and in extreme winters, early in March.

Mulch your newly planted fruit trees, particularly the choicest of the stone-fruit kinds, if not already done. Pear-trees should be protected in this way, and if in an orchard, will be benefited by laying long litter on the surface of the roots. This is a matter of great importance. Most of our winter killed trees are destroyed when the soil around the roots is frozen; there is no absorption, and the tree is placed in the same position as if cut over at the surface, and stuck in the ground. A position it cannot long survive.

CLEMATIs PATENs Amalia.

Pruning #2

Never cut a branch until you can see a satisfactory reason for its removal. In thinning the branches of old neglected trees, endeavor to do it regularly, so as to preserve a well-balanced head. Young, stunted trees should be pruned well back, and all fruit buds picked out. On the other hand, those that have made strong growths should be sparingly pruned, and, if the upright centre shoots are vigorous, and the lower side branches weak, the latter should be pruned close, and the centre shoots reduced in vigor by pinching the young shoots during growth; pruning them severely now, will only increase their future vigor.

Pruning #3

The science of pruning does not seem to be generally understood, notwithstanding all that has been advanced on the subject. Summer is recommended by some as the best time, while others say that winter is the proper season. So far as simply th'nning out the branches of an old and well established tree, it perhaps matters but little what season is chosen for the operation; but as practised for the production of fruit, in opposition to the production of timber, as special objects, the season is all-important. Fruit growers who are conversant with pruning, recognize these distinctions, and act accordingly; they know that when a luxuriant, healthy tree has attained a fruit hearing size, but shows no disposition to fruit, the barrenness is owing to preponderant wood growth, which must be checked, in order to encourage the formation of flower buds. They also know, that by diminishing the foliage during growth, the plant is weakened; that by rubbing off a bud in May, prevents the necessity of cutting out a branch in November; that by pinching out the point of a growing branch, lateral branches are immediately produced from buds that would otherwise have remained dormant until the following season; and, on the other hand, that to strengthen a weakly tree, every leaf should be carefully retained during summer, and the branches pruned severely after the plant has become deciduous.

The results of winter and summer pruning are as important as they are dissimilar.

Pruning #4

The skilful pruner will always have an object in view, and will see at a glance the results of each cut he is about to make. Practice alone can give him this foresight as well as dexterity in the art. It is requisite, also, that he should know how to regulate the energies of his trees, and the means at command to induce fruitfulness, to have the trees in a condition that, while one crop of fruit is coming to maturity, the organization of fruit-buds for the following season is going on; in short, to have the trees in a fit condition from year to year, to produce a crop of fruit. This may be accomplished by timely stopping and thinning the luxuriant shoots during the summer growth, by regulating the crop of fruit. and by root pruning, which is, in some soils, a very important operation; and every fruit grower ought to know quite as much of the root as he does of the branches of his trees. The above applies to trees growing too strong to be fruitful; but, on the other hand, when the trees are feeble from over-cropping, or other causes, close pruning is requisite, together with light crops, and assisting the trees by top dressing, which will have the desired effect.