This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
Ibid. Nurserymen usually send grafts of rare fruits, at the price of a tree for a dozen grafts: more common sorts at much lower rates by the quanlity. John Jon es. - The grafts of the grape-vine should be kept in a cellar till the leaves of the stocks are bursting - then grafted. In this way they take very readily.
(A Subscriber, York.) In some countries, grafting is the general mode, but, with us, budding is most usual. The stocks are seedlings from the lemons of the stores. They are budded when two or three years old - generally in July or August - but at any time when the growth of the stock of scions are half through. It can best be accomplished in a close, moist heat - say in a greenhouse or frame.
When peach-trees are "frozen," the wood as well as the pith turns of a brown color.
"J. H. R., Iroquois."Pelargoniums may readily be grafted. Side grafting is most generally practiced, and the months of February or March are, perhaps, the best time. You can, if desirable, put two or more kinds upon one stock. After grafting, the plants should be kept shaded and in a moist heat until the grafts have partially or wholly united.
The tree varieties are difficult to increase by division; but can be easily propagated by grafting. From the middle of July to the middle of September obtain strong roots of herbaceous varieties, and a graft with one or more buds inserted upon the side of the root. The grafted roots must be put under bell-glasses, or in close frames with a northern aspect; the grafts soon become united, and produce roots for themselves. - Floral World, p. 117.
A skillful horticulturist of Delaware County, Pa., informs The Practical Farmer that, having some pear trees which produced only cracked fruit, he grafted on them the common quince, and has those latter of very fine quality, perfectly smooth, and of large size. Are there any others that have tried the same plan ?
A. Birdsey, (Middlctown.) It will make no difference as to the liability to blight at what age you graft the seedlings. When they are half an inch in diameter they are large enough, and they may be budded with success when only two years old. Double grafting is not at all necessary for your purpose. The most profitable winter pear is the Pound, and the most profitable summer pear the Bartlett.
This is a practice of general and successful adoption at the South. Stocks that were too small to bud at the proper time last fall are grafted in the spring. We have practiced it many times, and successfully, here at the North. We cut our grafts early in spring, before the buds start, just as we would for other grafting; and as soon as the frost is well out of the ground, and the peach buds swell rapidly, we draw away the soil from the crown of the young stock or plant, cut it off just at the junction of root and stalk, and apply our graft of two buds in the common way of splice or tongue grafting, wrapping with bass matting or woolen yam, and then drawing the soil up around the graft, so that only the point of the upper bud is above ground. We have rarely failed of success by this practice.