When well managed this is decidedly a handsome plant, and it is more, accommodating in its habits than most varieties of the genus, growing and flowering as it does, for months in succession during winter. It is readily increased by means of cuttings, which may be obtained in spring from young growing plants. Firm, short-jointed, well-ripened pieces should be selected for the purpose, inserting them in sandy, peaty soil, covering with a bell-glass, and plunging in a gentle bottom heat of from 70° to 80°, where, in the course of a month or six weeks, they will be sufficiently rooted to bear potting off singly in small pots. It will be necessary to place the young plants in a rather close, moist, warm situation until they have become well established, when they may be removed to a cooler position, and allowed more light and air. During summer they cannot have better accommodation than a cold frame, kept moist and rather close, and shaded from the forenoon's sun; here they will make rapid progress, and must be shifted as may be requisite to afford sufficient space for the roots.

In order to secure a dwarf compact form it will be necessary to stop the leading shoot occasionally; and if thrips make their appearance, and this plant when kept growing during the early months of summer is rather subject to them, tobacco smoke should be applied the moment they are perceived, and as often as required to eradicate them. As soon as damp cloudy weather occurs in autumn, remove the plants to a situation near the glass in a house or pit, where the night temperature can be kept at about 60° or 55°, which will be sufficiently warm to promote active growth. The plants may be allowed to remain here till about Christmas, when it will be advisable to remove them to a temperature some 10° lower, giving water very sparingly, in order to afford them a season of rest; but this sort must not be treated, when in a dormant state, like the tuberous rooted varieties which require no water during that period; a small allowance, however, will be sufficient, merely enough to prevent the soil from becoming excessively dry.

If the plants are wanted to flower during the winter months (and with early propagation, and it will be advisable not to excite them into growth till towards the beginning of June, when they may be placed in a rather close, moist situation, near the glass, in a pit or frame where they can be slightly screened from the mid-day sun. See that the soil is got into a moist healthy state; and it will also be advisable to examine the roots, giving a small shift to such as require more pot room. Maintain a moist atmosphere; keep the plants clear of insects; and stop the leading shoots occasionally, in order to induce compact bushy specimens. Towards the middle of July a second shift will probably be required, and this should be into the flowering pots; and as the plants are intended to continue growing and blooming throughout the winter, a liberal shift should be given. Water cautiously, and keep the atmosphere moist and rather close till the roots have got hold of the fresh soil, when air may be admitted rather freely, shutting up early in the afternoon with a moist atmosphere.

In September they should be removed to where the temperature can be kept to about 55° at night, and light and air afforded to mature the wood, and induce the production of blossom. The best situation for the flowering specimens during winter is one where they will receive all the light possible, and where the temperature may average from 45° to 50° at night, allowing it to rise some 5° before giving air; and if properly supplied with water, and kept clear of insects, they will present, as I have already stated, a very pleasing appearance for some three or four months - -a longer period than most plants remain in blossom.

When the flowers begin to be produced too thinly to be effective, the plants should be removed to a cool, shady situation, sparingly supplied with water, and allowed a season of rest; this ought to be attended to before they cease to produce flowers, which would not take place until the health of the specimens would be greatly injured. My practice is to remove them to a cool, shady situation in April, and when the weather becomes mild and settled, say about the middle of June, to place them against a north wall, where they are safe from rain and drip, giving them very little water. Shortly after allowing the plants to go to rest, the shoots should be thiuned and cut back, so as to secure a dwarf, bushy habit of growth at the commencement of next season. Early in August they should be removed to a situation similar to that recommended for their growth last season, but they may be previously turned out of the pots; and if the soil is sour or in an unhealthy state, reduce the balls sufficiently to clear away the bad Boil, repotting in the same sized or smaller potts; a moderate shift should also be given, either now or in the course of a few weeks, to such as require it In the case of plants the balls of which have to be considerably reduced, a rather higher temperature should be afforded them until they are fairly established in their pots; and plants that are at all pot-bound will be greatly benefitted by an occasional watering with weak, clear manure water.

With careful management, and occasionally reducing the balls, so as to afford the roots a portion of fresh soil, the plants will last in good condition for many years; but it is advisable to keep up a supply of young ones, as these are more easily managed than old specimens.

Good, rich, turfy peat, and light, sandy, turfy loam in the proportion of two of the former to one of the latter, with a liberal mixture of silver-sand and broken potsherds or earcoal, form an excellent compost for the growth of this plant The peat and loam should be carefully broken up with the hand, and only the best pieces selected, and it should be well intermixed with the sand, etc., before use. - Alpha, in Gardeners' Chronicle.