IN my first attemps at grafting the pine, I met with many failures (and I believe this is the case with nearly all nurserymen in the United States), until I adopted the following method under which failures seldom occur.

The process is as follows: - From the Middle of February to the end of March, I take from the open ground young thrifty trees, about 1/8 or 1/4 inch in diameter, preserving the roots as entire as possible; these I plant in boxes or pots, and place in a cool and rather shady place in the greenhouse, until the young growth begins to push out.

I then graft in the stem by the usual method of side grafting, much as recommended in Hoopes' Book of Evergreens. I use the strongest terminal shoots I can get for scions, which are carefully waxed over after setting.

The plant is then placed in a shady but rather warmer place, and to make the scion push its buds, every other bud on the stock is carefully removed as fast as they appear; this throws all of the strength of the plant into the scion, which soon starts with great vigor.

In a month or two when the scion is well healed in, the entire top of the stock may be removed. The great secret of success lies in keeping all the young growth on the stock removed, and unless you attend to this faithfully, failure will be the result. Pinus Massoniana and P. pungens, will grow on Pinus Sylvestris with scarcely a failure.

The varieties with two, three and five leaves in a sheath, should be grafted on some stock having the same number of leaves in a sheath.