What stock is best to propagate Mulberries on; and how do you do it by bud or graft; and how do you treat them after planting; and what kind is best for our climate? (1) What stock do you work Medlars on, and how by, bud or graft; and what kind is best for our cold Canada? (2) How will a Green Gage do as an espalier, against a wall lathed and plastered, at the south end? (3) What do you consider the best stock to dwarf Cherries on? Do you think budding or grafting the beat? (4) What do you propagate Boses on, or what is the best? (5) How far do you plant your grafts apart in the rows? (6)

(1) We do not practice budding or grafting the Mulberry to any extent. The principal sort we cultivate is the Large Black English, and we increase it by layers, which require two years to root well. You can graft this sort on the native Red Mulberry, which can be raised from seed.

(2) Work Medlars on the Quince - bud them - the Large Dutch variety is the best; none are cultivated in this country to any considerable extent.

(8) It will do very well on a trellis.

(4) The Mahaleb is the best stock for dwarf Cherries, and budding much better than grafting.

(6) We prefer the Manetti to any other Rose stock we have used.

(6) Root grafted Apples are usually planted eight to ten inches apart in the rows.

I take a subscriber's privilege to ask you a few questions. I am exceedingly troubled with Motet, who ridge up my grees, and bore galleries in my terraces, beyond all endurance. A heavy rain has Just scooped oat a great hole in one of the latter; having found its way through a Mole-course, and a few such rains would entirely rain my grassy slope. How shall I rid myself of these troublesome visitors ? (1)

Within a mile or so of my dwelling there are quite a number of beautiful young White Pines, which I contemplate removing to my own grounds this spring. I find, however, a good many dead branches among the green; especially formed leading shoots, which, when quite dead and brown, I find to be completely honey-combed by the borings of some insect, which I was unable to find; the leading shoot did not seem to have been attacked every year, but at intervals of two or three years, and during these periods a side shoot would rise up and become a leader. I have consulted Emerson's Report - the only book I have on arboriculture - and can find nothing concerning it If I transplant these specimens to my own grounds, will my other specimens be infected from them ? Is there any way to kill or cure the insect which causes this ? There are some thrifty Pines Just over a little hill from these ones I apeak of, say forty or fifty feet high, which do not seem to be affected. I send you enclosed specimens of the dead wood and also of the live wood, which seems to be Just beginning to be affected.

I find, on close examination, a small white grub with a brown head, ensconced in the holes. I suppose he is the cause of the injury; you will probably find more on breaking the dead sticks. I have, however, enclosed a specimen in a paper cone, which you will find in the box. Can you give me his antecedents, history, and cure? (2)

Also, with the rest, I send a living branch, with what seems to be some sort of a Wooly Aphis adhering, which has stinted the growth of the new shoots above? (8)

Is it the same disease which so troubled Mr. Sargent, of Fishkill, a year or two ago, and gave him so much alarm? I have since seen a communication in the Horticultural, from a lady, stating that she had succeeded in eradicating the pest, by copious ehowerings of tobacco-water. David L. JUDSON. - Birmingham, Ct.

(1) We have known Moles to be driven off by bits of cod-fish placed in their runs. We published the following remedy in our volume for 1853: "Take 1 lb. of bean-meal, 8 or. of slacked lima in powder, ½ oz. of powdered verdigris, and 4 oz. of essential oil of Lavender. After mixing thoroughly the powdered part of this composition, incorporate the oil. With a little water work the mixture into a dough. With this form balls the size of hazel nuts; they will harden after having been exposed to the air for twenty-four hours. Introduce them twenty or thirty feet apart into the Mole's runs, or one ball may be dropped into the hole of each Mole-hill, taking care to cover it up immediately. The smell of these ingredients is so offensive to the Mole, that he immediately deserts his ground. The mixture is, at the same time, a violent poison for Moles, Rats, and all such vermin".

(2) The grub in the branches of White Pine enclosed, is "The White Pine Weevil," described by Prof. Harris. He says: "Its eggs are deposited on the leading shoot of the Pine, probably immediately under the outer bark. The larva hatched therefrom, bore into the shoot in various directions, and probably remain in the wood more than one year! We know of no remedy likely to prove effectual; but would advise the removal and destruction of all branches attacked with these borers, on the first indication of their presence.

(3) The branches sent are also badly affected with the Wooly Aphis -a great pest - the same as described by Mr. Sargent, to which you refer.