This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
Seeing in the January number of the Horticulturist, in "Hints on Grape Culture," your mode of making a trellis, I will give your subscribers mine, if I do not trespass on your time and patience too much. In the first place, in making my trellis, I get good swamp oak posts, 13 feet long, 5 by 5 inches at the butt, and 5 by 1 1/2 inches at the end or top. These I set in the vineyard where wanted, 3 1/2 to 4 feet deep, 30 feet apart. The two end posts I braced by setting a short post, 4 feet long, 3 1/2 feet in the ground, leaving 6 inches above ground, to which I fasten my brace. This post should be set about 7 or 8 feet from the end post.

For the brace I use 3 by 4 good pine scantling. Wires I use 7 in number, placing them at intervals of 15 inches apart. For the lower or first wire I use No. 9; for the others, No. 10, annealed fence wire. The wires are fastened at one end by boring a hole through the post large enough to admit the wire, and then winding once around the post and fastening; this prevents the wire from slipping or getting displaced, and is better than to wind around alone. The other end is fastened by a bolt 14 inches long, made of 3/8 inch round iron, with a thread cut on it 10 inches long, and a hole or eye punched or drilled in it large enough to admit the wire. This bolt is inserted by boring a hole a trifle larger than the bolt, through the post, so as to allow it to move freely backward and forward; for if the bolt fits too tight, it will rust and get stuck in the post, so that it can not be moved when it is necessary to tighten or slacken the wires, especially if the posts are oak. I coat the wires with coal tar; this prevents their rusting, and is cheaper and better than paint.
I place my vines 10 feet apart on the trellis, and 8 feet between the rows. In the first year of planting the vines I allow them to grow one shoot or cane; this is cut back the following fall to 3 eyes. These I allow to grow the following spring, training the two lower shoots horizontally each way on the lower wire until they meet midway with those of the next vine. The shoot from the third or upper eye I train up vertically, and which produces fruit the next season. The two horizontal shoots from this season will produce a cane or shoot from each eye, which is trained up vertically on the trellis, and which fills it up completely, forming, as it were, a solid wall of vines. By cutting out every other cane at three eyes, you can renew your wood every year. I have got sixteen native varieties and four foreign, that I am cultivating. I have set out some two and some three years old, which I expect will show fruit this coming season. There is a great interest manifested about here in growing grapes for market; all the people need, to induce them to cultivate this best of all fruits, is practical knowledge; and I must in candor say that, since I have become acquainted with the Horticulturist, I have learned more about grape culture and horticultural matters in general, than in all the works I ever read on that subject.
But I must close, as I am already trespassing on your time too much.
[Your trellis is very good and substantial, though we should prefer chestnut posts to oak. Your mode of fastening the wires is excellent, besides being simple and cheap. The sunken post for the lower end of the brace to rest against is to be preferred to a stone, which is sometimes used. We shall be pleased to hear from you again. We shall endeavor to impart to your people just such knowledge as will make them thorough horticulturists. - Ed].
 
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