As the young shoots progress, tie the canes up to the rafters, but keep their points pendant until the lower buds are well into growth. Attend early to disbudding - a very necessary operation on close pruned vines; of course leave the strongest shoot. Syringe over the plants during the early portion of the day, and endeavor to have the house dry towards evening, so long as frosty nights may be expected. If appearances indicate a sharp frost, and there is no other means of repelling it, filling the house with smoke will be found a good preventive expedient. Damp hay, or any similar matter, will answer this purpose; tobacco stems may be used, if there are, as frequently happens, nectarine or peach-trees trained on the back wall, as both the green and black aphis are very liable to attack them when the leaves are developing. Admit air carefully, exclude dry, blustering winds, and keep the bottom ventilators closed to avoid currents.

Grapery #1

In well-drained borders (and all vine borders should be well drained), thorough applications of rain water should be given at intervals of ten or twelve days, if the weather continue dry and clear. This is independent of the daily sprinkling necessary on the floor and paths of the house, to charge the atmosphere with moisture. Air regularly, hut gradually; nothing can he more injurious than sudden checks, produced by a hasty opening of the ventilators; a fearful source of mildew. Towards the end of the month leave the top sashes open all night, and allow the temperature to fluctuate in a similar manner as the external atmosphere. There is no climate in the world where the temperature is constantly the same. Disbudding, and tying up the young shoots, will be the principal requirements. A slight syringing when in flower, helps to thin, or, rather, prevents the thick setting of the berries; of course, it must be done cautiously.

Grapery #2

Thinning the bunches having already been attended to, thinning the berries will now require attention. Shouldered bunches may require tying up and spreading to allow the berries to swell. It is difficult to establish definite rules as regards the exact amount of fruit a vine is able to mature. Attempts have been made to form rules according to the diameter of the stem. This may be found tolerably accurate when all are under similar treatment; but a well-ripened cane, half an inch in diameter, may perfect a crop of eight lbs., when a cane double the thickness, would not ripen as many ounces. It is not the quantity or size of shoot that is all-desirable, but its quality as regards matured growth. The great error, in most of our horticultural advice, is a tendency to generalize upon insufficient data. It is a mistake for any one to suppose, that what he finds good for his own guidance, under his system of management, will be equally suitable for the million under their various modes of management. Keep the atmosphere moist by frequently sprinkling the house with water; this will tend to prevent mildew, but when it does show itself, use sulphur dusted over the bouse. Syringe the vines occasionally, but dashing water through a force pump on the tender foliage, is not beneficial or natural.

Ventilate exclusively by the top, and leave them open, to a certain extent, both day and night. If managed as above, there will be no danger of bad colored grapes. "Ventilate early in the morning, and shut up early in the evening," is common advice, and those who adopt such a course need not be surprised if their fruit is deficient both in color and flavor. The fruit will ripen earlier when the temperature is kept cool in the absence of light.

Vines that are treated on the short spur pruning system, must be stopped an eye, or, at most, two, above the fruit bunch. It is well to encourage all growth that is possible. Close summer pruning is sooner or later ruinous to the plant if persevered in. We confess to having advocated a different course several years ago, but experience, that best of all monitors, has taught us otherwise, and, as a celebrated writer has remarked, " of what use is life without the hope of improvement?"

* [The period when dwarf trees require attention from the pincher having arrived, we refer the learner to Mr. Barry's book of fruits, and particularly to the volume of the Horticulturist for 1853, page 254, for information on the subject. - Ed].

Grapery #3

As the fruit indicates maturity, both the atmosphere and soil should be gradually rendered drier. Leading shoots that have advanced to the desired length for next year's fruiting, should be stopped at the points; and, towards the end of the month, pinch the point out of every shoot. These gradual checks to growth hasten maturity, without paralyzing the plants. It is a ruinous practice to defer thinning the wood to a late period, and then out it out in bundles, under the pretence of "letting in light and air".

Grapery #4

When the fruit is ripening, the supply of water at the root should be gradually curtailed. Syringing over the foliage should also be discontinued, but still, keep a slight humidity in the atmosphere by sprinkling water on the floor of the house. Keep the house well aired, both night and day, and pinch the young points out of all growing shoots. When a bunch of fruit is cut, immediately prune back the shoot to within two or three eyes of the Stem, and use means to get the wood well matured. The ripening and hardening of the wood is now the principal object, as upon it depends the next season's production. The soil and atmosphere should be kept perfectly dry as soon as the crop is fit for use. Many graperies are destroyed by being overtaken with frost while in a succulent and immature state.

Outside borders should be covered with leaves or manure, to throw off heavy fall rains. Everything, lor the future, depends upon a thorough and proper termination of growth.