How To repair a leak in a lead pipe where the water cannot be wholly shut off, and there is no pressure.

A little back of the point where the joint is to be made, prick a slanting hole through the pipe with a marking awl. Through this hole run a small wire out through the end opening of the pipe. To this wire fasten a string, and pull through the hole quite a quantity of string, which should be well greased with tallow. Then lay this string back and forth or coil it evenly about the fingers so that it will not snarl. When enough is thus coiled to fill the pipe, push it into the opening, and tamp it until it plugs the opening as well as possible, after which the joint can be wiped. After the wiping is finished, take the string where it comes through the hole, give it a sharp twitch which will break up the plug of string, and allow its entire length to be pulled out. After this beat the hole up tight and put on a drop of solder. By pricking the hole slanting, the string can be more easily pulled out and the water will not fly out in one's face.

How To string lead pipe.

To string lead pipe overhead, it is well to erect a temporary stage, directly under the line of pipe, of barrels and planks. Then let the helper take the coil of pipe between his knees, and uncoil only as fast as the plumber can clip it up, the helper at the same time taking the weight of the pipe. This enables the plumber to keep his line straight, and kinks in the pipe are thereby avoided. It is much harder to make a good looking job after the pipe has become kinked than it is to keep it right by the above method.

How To stop a leak on the bottom side of a lead pipe.

First scrape the pipe bright, and rub on tallow. Then pour from the ladle onto the wiping cloth some fine solder heated quite hot, and quickly press the melted metal up against the leak. Previous to applying the solder, have the pipe well heated.

How To remedy a faulty draught.

It will often be found that where stoves enter the same flue on different floors, the stove on the first floor has an excellent draught, while the one above will have almost none. This is caused by the stove on the first floor getting the advantage and cutting off the draught of the stove above. To remedy this trouble, allow the upper pipe to go to the back of the chimney, cutting off the top part of the pipe in the chimney. This splits the current from the lower stove, and allows the upper draught to get an upward start.

How To support lead tank lining.

Tank linings having large area, frequently have to be supported to prevent the sag that would in time follow owing to the weight of the metal. On the sides of the tank, before the lining has been put in, gouge out enough shallow bowls to give the desired support, then when the lining is in place, beat it into the bowls, and in the center of each bowl put in a strong brass screw. Finally, scrape the inside of the bowl and wipe it flush with the surface.

Substitute for a groover.

It sometimes happens that in lining a tank, a piece of copper has to be grooved and there is no groover at hand. In this case, turn a common monkey wrench up to the width of the seam desired, which works very well as a substitute.

Spanish windlass.

The Spanish windlass, as it is called, will often be found handy where lead pipe of a large size has to be rolled over, as may be the case where it is desired to bring a leak at the bottom of a pipe to the top. After heating the pipe as explained elsewhere, take a strong cord, tying the two ends together, and making the loop quite short. Bring the double cord or loop around the pipe and shove a stick of soft wood through one of the loops so that the end of the stick will just catch and hold the other loop firmly against the pipe. With this arrangement the desired work can be done, as the harder it is pulled, the tighter the grip becomes.