How To make a cup joint on horizontal pipe.

Cut the pipe off on a slant and swedge out one end, enough to let the opposite end drop into the cup. Then with a sharp pointed soldering copper, a good cup joint can be made. By using a long pointed copper there is not so much heat at the extreme end, and the solder will be less liable to run away from the work.

Square bend in lead pipe.

A nice square bend can be made on a piece of lead pipe if necessary, by cutting out a V shaped piece at 45 degrees, the cut running only through the bore of the pipe, after which the pipe is bent and burned together. Other than square bends may be formed by cutting out a piece at the right angle.

How To plug a range boiler.

The great trouble in plugging a boiler in which a leak has occurred, is to get thickness enough for more than one thread. To overcome this, after the hole has been reamed out, drive in carefully a tapering punch, thereby forcing a heavy burr into the boiler, which will give a chance for additional threads if it is done carefully.

How To prevent rain leaders from freezing and bursting.

The freezing and bursting of rain leaders can be avoided by running a small steam pipe into the leader pipe, with a valve near the main connection. Whenever ice is found to have formed, a jet of steam will quickly relieve the trouble.

How To run a joint where there is not room for an asbestos rope.

Cut out a ring of pasteboard, the inner circle just the size of the outside diameter of the pipe; then cut through one side of the ring so that it may be slipped over the pipe and against the hub where the joint is to be made. With the slit in the pasteboard at the top, the use of a little putty will complete the device, so that the joint can be successfully poured.

How To wipe a joint on block tin pipe.

Prepare the joint as for lead work, and use bismuth solder instead of ordinary wiping solder. Heat the solder until it is of the consistency of a thick porridge. Having warmed the pipe, make the joint quickly, remembering that it must be made the first time, as it cannot be wiped and rewiped as on lead pipe. If the workman is fairly skillful, he will have ample time in which to wipe the joint.

How To make a joint on lead-lined soil pipe.

This pipe must sometimes be used, for instance when certain kinds of acids enter the drainage system. In connecting a piece of such pipe into a hub, the iron pipe should be cut off beyond the end sufficiently to allow for beating the lead over the end of the iron pipe. When placed in the hub, the hot lead will make a perfect joint, and the iron be protected from the action of the acids.

How To finish galvanized piping.

Go over the piping after its completion, with fine sand paper, being careful always to rub one way.

Coils for beer work.

Use 3/8 in. block tin pipe. Never use lead pipe, as lead poisoning is sure to result from the strong action of the beer on the lead.

For a coil of 10 in. diameter, cut off 12 ft. of pipe. For a coil of 12 in. diameter, cut off 25 ft. of pipe. For a coil of 14 in. diameter, cut off 30 ft. of pipe. These lengths will allow ample tail pieces to connect to.

A handy device for bending small pipes when usual facilities are not at hand.

Obtain a tee of sufficient size to slip onto the pipe to be bent. Into the side opening of the tee screw about three feet of pipe. Slip the tee onto the pipe to the point where the bend is to be made, and use the pipe into the side opening of the tee as a lever or as a support to bend against. A sharp bend at the exact point can be obtained.

Shelac to hold bi-transit waste packings.

The plumber is often bothered by the slipping off of these packings. To avoid this, use cut shelac as follows. Before putting on the packing, wipe a little of the shelac around the inside of the rubber, and let it dry. Then cover the brass work with shelac, and give the rubber a second coating. Then slip the packing at once into place. This will hold for a long time. Better results can be obtained, however, from shelac cut in turpentine, which will withstand water as long as the rest of the work holds together. It takes two or three weeks to cut shelac with turpentine, but a bottle of it will be found very useful.

An easy method of setting up work for wiping.

The plumber is often bothered in setting up his work preparatory to wiping. For instance, in wiping a brass ferrule, he will often have to drive a round stick into one end of the ferrule to give a support on which to rest the work. The following will avoid some of this work. Go around the end of the pipe where it meets the ferrule or where it meets the pipe to which it is to be joined, with a large hot soldering copper, burning the lead together. Sometimes a small drop of solder is used to start the lead flowing, but not more than a drop should be used, as, the nearer the burned joint comes to being lead, the longer it will withstand heat. As solder melts much easier than lead, the lead joint will hold the work firmly while the joint is being wiped.

An easy method of bending brass pipe.

Fill the pipe with sand, well rammed, and plug the ends. Place the pipe on the end of the bench, allowing one end to overhang. Set a furnace under the point where the bend is to be made, and cover it on top with a piece of sheet iron, a shovel or other convenient manner, to confine the heat. Watch carefully that the pipe does not become overheated. As it heats, the weight of the overhanging pipe will cause it to bend until it reaches the floor, if of sufficient length. With a little care sharp right angle bends can be very neatly made in this way. When heated brass is very brittle, but in this case the pipe itself acts as a tell-tale. When the bend is complete allow it to cool. If the overhanging part is too short to give sufficient weight to carry itself down, a weight may be attached to the end.