This section is from the book "Questions And Answers On The Practice And Theory Of Sanitary Plumbing", by R. M. Starbuck. Also available from Amazon: Questions and Answers on the Practice and Theory of Sanitary Plumbing.
On this work it is much better to make the joint inside the boiler. Ream out the hole where the leak is, removing any inside bur. Next lower a string into the boiler through the top opening of boiler, and with a bent wire draw the string through the hole that has been reamed out. Attach to the string a bolt with brass washer and rubber washer fitting tight to the bolt. With a little patience the bolt can be drawn through the hole by means of the string. A nut outside will set the bolt up and make a tight joint with the rubber washer. This gives the advantage of the inside pressure to make the joint tight.
An aid in brazing.
Occasionally the plumber is called upon to do a little brazing. He will find that a little powdered tin sprinkled on the seam just as the spalter reaches the melting point, will make the solder flow much more freely.
In wiping a large joint, it is important to keep the metal at the proper heat. A bag of hot sand placed inside the pipe will help in keeping this heat.
Build around the length of the exposed pipe a series of boxes one outside another, with air spaces of about one inch between the boxes. Rough boards are as good as better material for this purpose. The air spaces afford the best of protection to the pipe.

This is a matter requiring considerable practice and judgment as to proper heat. Make the joint in the usual manner. It is not necessary to finish up the joint to any extent. Then when the joint has reached a proper heat, take a ladle of semi-fluid solder and pour over the joint, wiping it off as quickly as possible. This will give a bright, silvery appearance to the joint, and it also prevents any chance of its being porous.
Wash the painted surface with potash dissolved in water. Use a swab and do not get the liquid on the hands.
For this purpose a thaw pipe is useful. The pipe should be 1/8 or 1/4. inch, of either lead or iron. If the run is not straight, lead should be used. Onto one end of the pipe solder a small tunnel. Holding the tunnel up as high as possible, with the pipe inserted into the frozen pipe, pour in hot water gradually, while a gentle pressure is kept with the pipe against the frozen section, the pipe being shoved in as the ice thaws. In this way ice can be thawed for 40 or 50 feet into the street. It is well to attach a round-way stop cock before commencing, which will allow the thaw pipe to pass through, and which may be closed when the water starts.
 
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