Material: Apple wood or hickory
The general drawing, Fig. 60, is what is termed a tabulated drawing; letters instead of figures are used on the drawing. To obtain the dimensions of any of the mallets numbered 1,2, and 3, look along the space opposite the number and under the letter, where the dimension will be found.
There is no doubt that a much smoother piece of work can be obtained from the paring cut than from the scraping cut. In working out this problem, use the paring cut on the handle and the scraping cut on the head.
First turn the handle to its largest diameter; then turn that portion of it which goes through the head, and, instead of using the calipers for the diameter, use a gauge made out of thin stock. The gauge is shown in Fig. 61. To make the gauge. The hole is bored with an auger bit corresponding to dimensions given in the table. The gauge is hung on the dead center so that it will not be necessaiy to remove the work from the lathe when trying for size. Leave this part of the handle a little longer than the diameter of the head so that it may be finished off flush when the mallet is put together.
In cutting the curve on the handle, notice that it is a long curve and not a series of curves. The curve is cut with the gouge. The lines on the handle are decorative, and are cut with the point of the skew. When all cutting is done, sandpaper smooth, give a coat Of shellac, lay it aside to dry, and before fitting it into the head, put it back into the lathe and smooth off the shellac with fine sandpaper.
To work out the head. After turning the cylinder to the largest diameter, mark the center line with the chisel point, then measure equal distances on each side of it. Possibly the only point that need be mentioned is the "fillets," that is, the small curves where the two diameters meet. These can be cut with the small gouge or round-nose scraping tool; in cutting the ends, use the parting tool. The lines on the head are also decorative and are cut in the same way as those on the handle. When the head is turned, finish in the same manner as the handle, with sandpaper and shellac.
To fasten the handle into the head. That part of the handle which fits into the head should be split with a saw cut, about half its length; the hole in the head should be bored true. To get the hole true, points should be marked on each side and the hole bored in from these points.
To locate the points to bore for the handle. To lay out the hole, take a compass and set it to the radius of the larger circle, that is, largest diameter. Commence at a point selected on the center line and space off three spaces on one side, then go back to the starting point and space off three spaces on the other side. Most likely it will be found that in spacing, the points will not meet (see A, Fig. 62). Divide this space equally; this will give the point on which to bore; the first point will be the point to bore on the other side.
In boring, it might be well to have some one to "line up" the bit, that is, to see that the bit is held at right angles to the axis of the cylinder. When the hole is bored, drive the handle into the head and fasten it in with a wedge, having the wedge in the position shown in the drawing.
The next step is to trim and smooth all ends and finish with shellac. Two coats of shellac will be sufficient.