This is an attractive but advanced model. The drawings should be all the orthographic projections in fig. 286, and the section on a b, as shown. An isometric projection would be too complicated to be of service here.
Section on a b.
The timber recommended for this model is bass-wood for the base 1 in. thick and 12 1/2 ins. square, and four strips of sycamore 13 1/2 ins. long, 3 1/4 ins. wide, and 1/ 2 in. thick, for the upright sides.
The key for the back may be of yellow deal, and should be made from a strip 13 ins. long, 2 ins. wide, and 1/2 in. thick.
The banding round the outer edge of the base may be made of sycamore and mahogany. Four strips of sycamore, each 10 1/2 ins. long, 1 1/8 in. wide, and 1/4 in. thick, and a strip of mahogany 6 ins. long, 1 1/2 in. wide, and 1/4 in. thick for the corners.
The four long points of the star can be made from two strips, one of sycamore and one of mahogany, 16 ins. long, 1 in. wide, and 3/8 in. thick.
The four other points which reach the centre should also be made of mahogany and sycamore, and a strip of each will be required 1 ft. long, 1 in. wide, and § in. thick.
The remaining eight short points will contrast well, if made of ash and walnut, and these, like the others, should be made from 3/8 in. wood, and a strip 16 ins. long and 1 in. wide of each kind will be wanted.
Plane up the base and shoot the edges, which are parallel to the fibres, true, but not quite down to the dimensions - about 1/4 in. more.
Cut out the groove for the key, make the key, and drive it tightly in, but without glueing it, as in Exercise XVIII.
The strips of mahogany and sycamore for the star should now be made quite true on both faces, and the edges shot perfectly parallel in the shooting board. In this operation each strip should lie face upwards while one edge is being planed, and face downwards while shooting the other.
Set out each strip for the long points as in fig. 287, and for the short points as in fig. 288, and saw the triangles out.
The star should now be drawn on the true surface of a piece of wood, and after shooting the inner points of each of the sixteen triangles in the shooting board, fit them all together to test the accuracy of the work. If correct, glue the pairs of dark and light coloured woods together, to make the eight diamond-shaped points, taking care to clean off any glue which may appear outside. Again test the accuracy of the jointing by putting the eight points together, and, if correct, shoot each edge of the outer ends true. Next glue the eight points together on a piece of paper, and clean out any glue which may show between each point. Prepare the small pieces of ash and walnut, cut from the remaining strips, as shown in the setting out (fig. 289), and glue them in to complete the star. There is no need to glue up the pairs of triangles separately in this case.
With the router and chisel, make the depressed star on the face of the bottom of the tray, to take the inlay as in Model XVII. Make the dovetails in the sides in the usual way, and draw the shape of the handle on one side, and of the plain curves on another. The opposite similar sides should be screwed up in the vice, and the curves sawn out with a bow saw. The handle and portion of the outer curve on those sides should be made by boring and paring. Finish the curves with a file.
The banding round the base must now be planed up true on both faces, edges, and ends, and a rebate made to receive them. Fig. 290 shows the setting out of the small strip of mahogany for the corners, and when these squares are cut out, take care to insert them with the grain in the direction shown in the plan (fig. 286), thus rendering the edge planing of the finished base easier. This should now be very carefully done, planing from the corners in towards the middle of each side, and taking care not to make the base too small - this is a very likely error. Fasten on the sides with three screws each, and glue the joints up at the same time.