This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Add a portion of the entire amount to each gore at the top, the most over the hip. Draw new lines from these points to the hip line (Fig. 925).
Reverse the above. Draw new lines, continuing to hip line (Fig. 935).
Add to each gore at hip line (greatest amount over hip), enough in all to correct the measure. Re-draft line from hip to waist, and hip to bottom (Fig. 92(7).
Reverse above. Necessary to redraft line from hip to waist and hip to bottom (Fig. 93A).
Reverse of above. Lay fold at same point, to shorten length, unless a great deal has to be taken up, in which case some could be taken from the bottom (Fig. 915).
If the waist measure is too small, slash pattern at waist line and spread apart until correct waist measure is obtained. Lap slashes if the waist is too large.
The commercial pattern is based on the lines of a normal erect figure. Certain alterations in the pattern for those who do not stand erect will save a good deal of fitting and possible dissatisfaction. For the woman whose hips and abdomen push forward as she stands, a tuck one-eighth to one-quarter inch deep will need to be taken in the back of the first gore of the pattern, and carried to nothing beyond the center of the gore. This will throw fulness into the front side of the gore, which pre-
Fig. 91. - Alteration of skirt patterns; A, increasing length of skirt; B, decreasing length of skirt; C, increasing waist and hip measure, also width at bottom; D, decreasing waist and hip measure, also width at bottom.
Fig. 92. - Alteration of skirt patterns; A, increasing waist and hip without increasing width at bottom; B, increasing waist measure; vents the whole skirt pushing forward, at the bottom, as it otherwise would. When this fault of posture is very marked, it will be necessary to add to the top of the front gore and top of the first side gore, sloping to less at the back of the gore; add the same amount to the top of the second side gore at the front, and slope to nothing at the back. The waist measure would also need to be increased.
C, increasing hip measure.
An excess of flesh, or over-development of muscles on the hips, will cause a skirt, otherwise correct, to hang badly. To correct this, lay a tuck one-eighth to one-quarter inch deep and six to eight inches below the waist in the back of the second side gore, sloping it to nothing beyond the center of the gore.
Fig. 93. - Alteration of pattern; A, decreasing hip measure; B, decreasing waist measure.