Collars

If the waist is to have a high closing, turn the lower edge of the collar up three-eighth inch; place this folded edge to the neck line of the waist, baste to place. Let the end of the collar extend across both hem and box plait of the waist. This collar will need to be folded away to fit in the center back, which will make it somewhat bias, or else a dart will need to be taken out in the side of the collar. Face the ends of the collar with net braid or material of the waist, cut lengthwise. Finish the collar at the bottom as the cuff is finished. If of lace, hem to the right side of the waist and whip the raw edge of the inside of the waist. Roll and whip the top of the collar, which can be shaped somewhat to fit the curve of the neck, unless tucked close to the top. Finish with an edge of insertion, a cord, or shaped pieces turning over the edge. To keep the collar in position, sew stays of wire, one on the left hand end, and one on each side on a line with the highest point at the side. Always use washable stays. Fasten the collar with buttons and loops, buttons and buttonholes, snap fasteners, or hooks and loops. If an open neck is desired, cut some becoming type of turn-over collar in cambric, large or small, and fit to the neck of the waist which has been cut on the line desired. These collars may be cut single or double, according to the finish to be used. If the edge is to be rolled or hemstitched, a single thickness will suffice, otherwise cut two. Place the pattern so that the center back is lengthwise of the material. Place the two right sides of the material together. Seam the outside edges together, turn through to the other side and baste the edges firmly. Baste along the edges that are to be joined to the waist, pin to place at the neck, and baste. Take a strip of material, bias, one inch wide and baste on the collar. Stitch through facing collar and neck of waist. Turn facing over, baste and hem to waist. Follow the same method of placing, for collar of single thickness. When the collar is hemstitched on the edges, if a line of hemstitching ornaments the front of the waist, it may also attach the collar to the waist.

Waist Closing

Cut buttonholes lengthwise of the material if the waist closes in the front, with box plait; crosswise if it closes in the back. Use small pearl, crochet or linen buttons. Sometimes buttonholes are omitted and fancy buttons used for trimming, the waist fastened beneath with snaps. Try to have a button cover the sewing of the snap.