This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
For a normal waist line finish, with separate belt of linen tacked to place, use a piece of thin-twilled belting, which has been shrunk. Place hooks and eyes temporarily. Place around figure and adjust skirt to belt; pin to place, and baste. Cover the raw edge of skirt with a piece of narrow linen tape (shrunk), and stitch top and bottom of tape (Fig. 205A). Sew hooks and eyes on permanently and make outside belt of linen, for which take two lengthwise strips of linen the desired width of belt plus seams. Allow for lap at ends of belt. Either stitch the two strips together and turn through, baste and stitch again on the outside stitching to be uniform with the seam stitchings, or turn the edges of both strips in together and stitch on the outside, same as other (Fig. 2055). The belt may be fastened with hooks and eyes, snaps, buttons or a buckle. For a button, a buttonhole must be worked and for a buckle an eyelet or set of eyelets; also a strap to hold the loose end in place. This belt should be tacked to the skirt at the back and over the hips.
Fig. 203. - Lapped seam, right and wrong side.
Fig. 204. - Slot seam, right and wrong side.
2. Another finish for the normal waist line, is a belt of cambric or muslin, over which may be worn a separate belt of linen or to which may be sewed one thickness of linen to simulate a separate belt. For a separate belt, the cambric may be cut to be finished as narrow as three-quarter inch, but when the linen is to be stitched down to it, the cambric belt must be made as wide as the outside finish. For this, take a lengthwise strip of cambric twice the width of the belt plus the seams and two inches longer than the waist
Fig. 205. - Waist line finishes for tailored skirts; A and B, normal waistline; C and D, raised waist line. .
* measure. Turn one inch back at each end and crease one-quarter-inch seam on both long edges. Fold the belt through the center lengthwise. Pin around the figure, and turning back the upper part, pin the skirt to place on the turned edge of the lower part. Remove skirt, baste to place, also baste upper edge down and stitch all around belt on edge. Make separate belt. If making belt in one with skirt, take a lengthwise piece of skirt material, three or four inches longer than waist measure, according to the style of finish desired, and the width of cambric belt plus seams. Turn seams, baste to cambric belt, placing facing on extension, stitch all around belt to coincide with seam stitchings.
Fig. 206. - Marking depth of hem after skirt has been hung.