Hammer Heads are usually made in dies and by power. The various forms through which the metal passes in die forging will serve as a guide for making a hammer head by hand. If a ball pene hammer like that shown in Fig. 7 is to be made, the work can best be done from a flat bar. Take a flat bar of suitable size for the hammer. This size is one that has about the same depth as the eye and a thickness equal to the body at that point, or enough more, so that the sectional area of the untouched bar shall be a little more than the area of the hammer's face. The heating can be done either in a soft coal fire or an anthracite furnace, as shown in Fig. 55. The latter is preferable. Heat the end of the bar only. Do not raise the temperature above a cherry red. After the first heating hammer out the peen so that the end of the bar has the shape shown in Fig. 68. This work can be done with the fuller, Fig. 29, and the cupping tool. Fig. 64. After drawing down the end of the rod with the flatter (Fig. 67), the fuller is used to work out the groove a. The cupping tool, whose face is that of a hollow sphere, assists in rounding the face of the pene. The peue should first however be given a rough spherical outline with the hammer alone. If the bar is of the exact size of the body no work need be done here. If not, then forge down to approximately the proper size. Next forge the body of the hammer and cut down in front of the face, still leaving it attached to the bar as shown in Fig. 65, The rooves at a and h can be worked out with the fuller.
The next step is to punch the eye. This eye should not be straight. It must be tapered out each way from the center, where the eye is to be of the smallest section. The taper must run both lengthwise and across the hole_as_ shown in Figs. CO and 67.
800-POUND BEMENT SINGLE-FRAME STEAM HAMMER.
Niles Bement Pond Company.
To form this, the taper punch must be driven in at the two sides of the head alternately until the eye has been enlarged to the proper size.
After the completion of this work the head may be cut free from the bar. It should then be ground. If a very good job is wanted, the head should be sent to the machine shop and turned. When this has been done it should be tempered, as will be directed later.