This section is from the "Home And School Sewing" book, by Frances Patton. Also available from Amazon: Home And School Sewing.
Cording is used to strengthen and finish various parts of a garment, and is made by covering dress cord with a bias piece of material. The width of the bias strips depends on the thickness of the cord. Additional material must be allowed if the covering is intended to face the garment as well.
Materials. - The materials required are: Cloth cut on a true bias; needles, "sharps"; cotton; scissors; a piece of fine dress cord; tape measure.
1. Place the cord on the wrong side of the bias strip.
2. Let the end of the strip extend one-fourth of an inch.
3. Fold the end of the bias strip, and then fold one edge over so that it meets the other.
4. Baste with even basting close to the cord.
5. If it is intended to use the cording as a facing, consider this fact in preparing the material to cover it. Place the cord as above and turn the edge over so that one edge of the bias strip just covers the cord, the other edge extending beyond it. See Illustration No. 36.
6. Baste close to the cord.
7. Holding the cord downwards, place the wrong side of
the strip to the right side of what represents the garment, keeping the raw edge of the fold even with raw edges of the garment.
8. Sew close to the cord with a backstitch.
9. Fold the cording back to the wrong side, and press the garment evenly against it at the top, to make the cord set well at the edge.
10. Hem the extended edge down on the wrong side for a facing.
11. Do not allow the hemming stitches to show through on the right side.
What is known as piping is merely an edge applied as a finish to bias folds, scanty ruffles, etc., and consists of a bias strip of contrasting or similar goods doubled, with the folded edge allowed to show.
ILL. 36. - Cording, with Material Extending to be Used as a Facing.