No. 2. This kimono is made with a yoke on which the body of the kimono is shirred. The upper part of the kimono may be made from the kimono night gown pattern; the other part is simply made of three straight pieces of material sewed together and gathered at the top. More decorative effects can easily be worked into this design if desired.
As this kimono is made like a kimono night gown with the exception of the neck, you may draft a kimono night gown pattern or if desired, you may use a commercial pattern. If a commercial pattern is used, study carefully the guide chart and all directions which accompany it.
This kimono is made without seams on the shoulders, the back and front being cut alike, hence one-half of the pattern for the front of the kimono will be sufficient to use in cutting it out. To prepare the material for cutting, fold it lengthwise in the center, making the selvages even. Fold it crosswise in the center, lay the straight edge or center front of the pattern on the lengthwise fold of the goods with the top of the shoulder even with the crosswise fold. Pin it in several places to keep it from slipping.
If the material is not wide enough at the bottom, extra pieces should be pinned to the edge of the goods to make it the desired width. If the material is very narrow, as is sometimes the case with silk, it may be necessary to use two widths of cloth for the front and two for the back. This will make a seam down the center back.
If it is necessary to piece the material under the arms, sew the extra pieces to the proper edges of the material with a plain seam if the edges are selvage, or if the edges are raw, use a French seam. If necessary to place a seam in the center back, use a plain seam to join selvage edges or a French seam to join raw edges.
The edges of the opening in this kimono were faced with length-wise strips of the material cut 1 1/2" wide, turned to the wrong side. Ribbon may be used very satisfactorily by turning the raw edge 1/4" toward the right side and basting the ribbon over it even with the folded edge. It should be stitched on both edges. This facing should extend about 1 1/2" above the point where the collar begins.
The collar for the kimono is made of a contrasting color and should be made double; it may be cut freehand or from a commercial pattern. To sew it on, place the center back of the collar and the kimono together, with the under side of the collar on the right side of the kimono and its edges even with the neck of the kimono at the back. Baste them together with 1/4" seam. Stitch, remove bastings. Turn the seam inside of the two thicknesses of the collar. Turn in the edge at the top of the collar enough to allow it to cover the stitching; baste and hem in place. Be careful to finish the end of the collar neatly, also the ends of the facing.
The cuffs are made of the same material of which the collar is made. To make them, cut two strips of the material 5" wide, the width of the bottom of the sleeve plus 1" for seams. Join the ends of each piece with a plain seam; sew a piece on the bottom of each sleeve in the same way that you sewed on the collar, making it double. Turn the folded edge back over the sleeve of the kimono to form a sort of cuff.
Put on the kimono, have someone even it around the bottom the distance desired from the floor, and pin the hem in place. Baste it around the bottom edge; trim it off even the desired width, turn in the raw edge, baste the top in position removing extra fullness by laying small pleats in the top of the hem; stitch in position, unless the material is silk; the hem on a silk kimono should be hemmed by hand. Overhand the open ends of the hems together.
This kimono, when worn, may be fastened with a fancy pin or with two or three snaps placed below the end of the collar (Chap. II, Par. 133).