Fine Irish Linen with Fancy Hemstitched Border-cluny or Valenciennes Lace for Edging-upright

Collar of Lace and Linen Forms a Dainty Finish to the Jabot

With very little trouble and a small ex-penditure of time, the most charming versions of the fashionable jabots and collars can be made out of embroidered handkerchiefs.

It is best to choose nice ones of real Irish linen, as the difference in cost is not considerable and the superiority of appearance is great.

Sometimes lace-edged handkerchiets are used, at others it is better to purchase the lace and sew on the handkerchiefs as required.

No. 1. A lace edged handkerchief is foldd slightly cornerwise to fashion this jabot

No. 1. A lace-edged handkerchief is foldd slightly cornerwise to fashion this jabot

One of the simplest patterns to make is shown in the first illustration. A dainty little handkerchief of fine transparent Irish linen, with a very narrow fancy hemstitched hem, and a lace edge of uncommon pattern, is chosen for it. This is folded slightly on the cross, and cut with one piece about 1 1/4 inches deeper than the other. The pieces are laid one over the other, keeping the edges at exactly even distances, and tacked together with very fine cotton or silk. They are then pleated up in narrow pleats, tacked in position, and ironed. The tacking threads are taken out, and the pleats drawn together in a straight line at the top, and put into a narrow band of muslin 2 1/4 inches long. This will cause the pleats to stand out a little at the lower edge. They will need another pressing with the iron.

Another very pretty jabot and collar (No. 2) is made from an Irish linen handkerchief, with a narrow hemstitched edge, and a decoration of a line of drawn-thread work and border of embroidered shamrocks. Cut off a piece 7 1/2 inches in depth from the handkerchief to form the jabot. Edge this at the sides with narrow Valenciennes lace, and at the lower edge with a wider width of the same lace.

Mitre the lace at the corners. The wide lace should be 1 1/4 inches, and the narrower one five-eights of an inch in width. Fold the handkerchief in fine pleats, about five on each side, going towards the centre. Tack and press these in position, take out the tacking threads, overlap the pleats a little in the centre at the top, and put them into a narrow band of muslin about 2 1/2 inches long. The remaining piece of the handkerchief is used to make the collar. It is cut in half, and the two points faced towards the front. Several rows of the narrow lace are then joined together, and inserted between the pieces of handkerchief in front of the collar as shown in the illustration. The lower edge of the collar is hemmed and a support inserted at the back.

No. 2. A suggestion for a dainty jabot and collar made from a handkerchief and edged with Valenciennes lace

No. 2. A suggestion for a dainty jabot and collar made from a handkerchief and edged with Valenciennes lace

Several variations of this idea may be made. For instance, put one or two rows of lace insertion above the lace edging the jabot, to reach the hemstitching, but do not cut the hem. A real Cluny lace, which is not at all expensive, may be employed in place of Valenciennes. Yet another notion is to use a handkerchief with a scalloped edge, and rather deep embroidery.