The appetizer should always be served in small portions because the purpose of this course is to whet but not to satisfy the appetite.

At formal dinners and luncheons, the same kind of appetizer is generally served to all the guests, but at more informal meals the hostess may give her guests an opportunity to choose their own appetizers. In that case a number of portions of various kinds are arranged on a regulation hors d'oeuvre tray or on a chop plate or small platter which is passed to each guest.

Each portion must be arranged so that it may be lifted from the tray by the guest and transferred to his plate without trouble. Suitable service silver - usually a tablespoon and large folk - must be laid on each tray.

The following combination will serve as a suggestion for the arrangement of a tray:

1. A crab salad. 2. An onion and green pepper salad. 3. Three or four olives on a small lettuce leaf. 4. A sandwich made of cress and brown bread and butter. 5. An oblong or square of aspic jelly on a lettuce leaf with an anchovy or sardine on the jelly. 6. Half of a. deviled egg on a lettuce leaf or in a bed of cress. 7. Cream cheese balls rolled in chopped chipped beef. 8. Cream cheese balls rolled in caviar. 9. Large stuffed olives filled with sharp cheese, wrapped in bacon and broiled until bacon is crisp. 10. Center celery stalks stuffed with Roquefort cheese paste or anchovy paste. 11. Small sweet pickles rolled in cream cheese then in a strip of smoked salmon, fastened with toothpick. 12. Rolled anchovies in broiled mushrooms. 13. Caviar in broiled mushrooms. 14. Tiny meat balls in broiled mushrooms. 15. Chicken liver balls rolled in chopped chipped beef.