283. As baking is the only means by which the poor inhabitants of towns for the most part can enjoy a joint of meat at home,* we shall say a word or two upon the subject, particularly with regard to those joints which, when they are carefully baked, most resemble roasted ones. Legs and loins of pork, legs of mutton, fillets of veal, etc., may be baked with advantage, if the meat be good and tolerably fat. Besides the joints here enumerated, there are many others which may be baked, providing the meat is not poor or lean. The following are observations on baking meat by a well-experienced baker; they are particularly deserving the attention of a careful housekeeper.

284. "A pig when sent to the baker prepared for baking should have its ears and tail covered with buttered paper, properly fastened on, and a bit of butter tied up in linen to baste the back with, otherwise it will be apt to blister. With a proper share of attention from the baker, this way is thought to be equal to a roasted one.

285. "A goose prepared as for toasting, taking care to have it on a stand, and when half done, to turn the other side upwards. A duck should be treated in the same way.

286. "After a buttock of beef has been in salt about a week, well wash it, and put it in a brown earthen pan with a pint of water, cover the pan quite over and tightly with two or three thicknesses of cap or foolscap paper (never use brown paper - it contains tar, &.c). Bake for four or five hours in a moderate heated oven. A ham properly soaked may be baked in the same way,

287. "Bakers are in the habit of baking small cod fish, haddock, and mackerel, with a dust of flour and some bits of butter put on them. Eels, when large and stuffed. Herrings and sprats in a brown pan, with a little vinegar and a little spice, and tied over with paper. A hare, prepared the same as for roasting, with a few pieces of butter and a little drop of milk put into the dish, and basted several times, will be found nearly equal to roasting; or cut it up, season it properly, put it into a jar or pan, and cover it over, and bake it in a moderate oven for about three hours. In the same manner legs and shins of beef, ox cheeks, &.C., prepared with a seasoning' of onions, turnips, etc., may be baked; they will take about four hours; let them stand till cold to skim off the fat; then warm up altogether, or part, as you may want it.

* We hope, however, in a few years, to see the American oven supersede the custom of dressing meat in the public bake-house.

288. "The time that each of the above articles should take, depends much upon the state of the oven; they should be sent to the baker in time, and he must be very neglectful if they are not ready at the time they are ordered."

289. We may be here allowed to remark, that the process of dressing meat in an oven in a covered pan is more analogous to stewing than it is to baking. It is, however, an excellent mode of cooking. The great objection to baking meat in an open pan, and among many other different descriptions of dishes, is the bad flavour which is apt to be imparted to it. There is, too, another objection to baked meat, which arises from the exclusion of the external air, or for want of a draught. The exhalations from the meat in baking, etc, not being carried off, they have a tendency to sodden it.

290. Dr. Kitchiner, no mean authority, deprecates the machines which the economical grate-makers call roasters, being in fact, as he asserts, "in plain English - ovens." The Doctor intimates, that these things are all very well for saving fuel, but affirms that the rational epicure, who has been accustomed to enjoy beef well roasted, will soon discover the difference. Notwithstanding this high authority, we have no hesitation in stating, that meat cooked in the roaster attached to Flavell's cooking apparatus, is as good as meat roasted before the fire. But we ought to observe, that Mr. Flavell's roaster has a current of air passing through it when so employed, but when used as an oven the current of air is prevented by the introduction of a damper. We can state from the experience of some years, that the apparatus alluded to is a most excellent contrivance for cooking generally.

291. " Nothing can be more preposterous," says Mr. Sylvester, in his 'Philosophy of Domestic Economy,' "and inappropriate, than the prevailing construction and management of a gentleman's kitchen. Before the discovery of the stew hearths, all the culinary processes were carried on with one immense open grate, burning as much fuel in one day as might do the same work for ten. The cook and the furniture of the kitchen get a proportion of this heat, the articles to be dressed another portion, but by far the greatest quantity goes up the chimney.

292. "The introduction of the stew hearth has in some degree reduced the magnitude of these grates; but they are yet disgraceful to science and common sense. In the present state (1819) of culinary improvement, a kitchen may be fitted up with apparatus, requiring much less labour and attention, with much less consumption of fuel; rendering the food more wholesome and agreeable, and also preventing that offensive smell which has made it so often necessary to detach the kitchen from the rest of the house."

293. The stew hearth is a most useful addition to the ordinary kitchen grate, but small families of limited means are seldom possessed of one. A stew hearth, indeed, or a substitute for one, which may be easily obtained, is indispensable in French, and indeed in good English cookery.