This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
While there are and can be only a very few hotels of the largest size and highest style, what few there are have great influence in setting the fashions in interior management, and many among the vast number of smaller hotel proprietors, as well as their employes, have had unpleasant experiences of the slighting manner, the real contempt with which the cooks from those larger hotels speak of the smaller and less pretentious houses, because of their denial of certain privileges and their greater regard to expenses. But one of the customs of the largest hotels, is a decidedly pernicious one and brings back punishment upon the employer by increasing the habit of intemperance among their employes, that is the custom of serving out regular rations of liquor and an almost unrestricted issue of wines and liquors on demand, ostensibly for cooking purposes. It looks generous in the hotel-keeper, but it is not really so, but the cooks secure the concession through their united demands. When a cook is wanted, telegraphed for, written for, as shown in a preceding page, he first inquires about the amount of salary offered and next stipulates how much liquors and wines per day shall be allowed to the kitchen.
When he gets to work, first thing among the morning issues from the storeroom comes a quart of whiskey, which he divides among the hands, taking two shares for himself. At the cooks' nine o'clock breakfast, instead of coffee they each drink a pint of cheap California wine, or, if they do not like that, they are allowed a pint bottle of beer, and at least once or twice more during the day wine or beer is served out again, while the chef, as well as head pastry cook, has a supply of various liquors always at hand. They would be more than human, if they could avoid excess under such circumstances. But cooks must drink something, theirs is a thirsty occupation. They do not need the whiskey early in the morning, and that is the most harmful of all their allowances, but let the hotel keeper or steward act as their friend, give them the needed bottle of weak wine or cool and harmless beer in the heat of the day when the work is hard, and never allow bottles of rum or other liquors to be issued at all.
He should pour the wine in the soup and brandy or rum in the sauce himself.