This section is from the book "Philadelphia Cook Book: A Manual Of Home Economies", by Sarah Tyson Heston Rorer. Also available from Amazon: Philadelphia Cook Book.
Mutton is usually divided into fore and hind quarters. The hind quarter is sub-divided into leg and loin, the fore quarter into shoulder, breast and neck. A saddle of mutton is two loins. Mutton is very much better if hung at least one week in cold weather, but three weeks will not hurt it. The flesh of good Southdown mutton should be a bright red color, the fat firm and white; and the fatter the mutton the better and more tender the lean parts. The leg, shoulder, and loin make nice roasting pieces. The breast and neck are used for soups and stews. The loins are also cut into loin and French chops.
Procure a nice well-hung leg of Southdown mutton weighing not less than ten pounds. Wipe it with a damp towel, place in a baking-pan, dredge with pepper, add one tea-spoonful of salt to one cup of boiling water, and pour it into a pan. Now place the pan in a very hot oven, and baste every ten minutes, adding no more water after the first evaporates, as there will be sufficient fat for basting. Bake fifteen minutes to every pound. Decorate the bone with a quilling of white paper, and serve with brown sauce, the same as roast beef. To roast in the tin kitchen, proceed in the same manner as for roast beef.
Take a hind quarter of a good four-year-old Southdown mutton. Wash it well, inside and out, with cider vinegar; do not wipe it, but hang in a cold, dry place, - not in the cellar if you can possibly find another place, as the moisture of a cellar is very apt to spoil the meat. Sponge in this way every other day for one week. Then mix a quarter ounce each of white pepper and allspice together, and rub well into the meat. Do this two days in succession, and let it hang another week. When ready to use, sponge off the spices with vinegar, and wipe dry. Roast the same as a leg of mutton, adding to the sauce, just before you pour it into the boat, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and if you use wine, four tablespoonfuls of sherry. Serve with red or black currant jelly in a separate dish.
Wipe the leg with a damp towel. Dust a cloth thickly with flour, and wrap the leg up in it. Put it into a kettle, cover with boiling water, and simmer gently fifteen minutes to every pound; add a teaspoonful of salt when the leg is half done. When done, remove the towel carefully, garnish with parsley, trim the bone with quilled paper, and serve with caper sauce either in a sauce-boat or poured over the mutton. Save the liquor in which it was boiled for stock.
Wipe the leg with a damp towel. Slice one carrot, one onion, one turnip, in the bottom of a baking or braising pan, add also two bay leaves, one stalk of celery, four cloves, and a sprig of parsley. Place the leg on top these vegetables, add one quart of water or stock and one tea-spoonful of salt. Put on the lid, if a braising-pan; if a baking-pan, cover with another pan. Put into a quick oven, and braise fifteen minutes to every pound. When done, take out on a heated dish. Put one large tablespoon-ful of butter in a frying-pan and stir over the fire until a nice brown; then add two tablespoonful of flour, mix, and add one pint of the liquor from braising-pan; stir constantly until it boils; add one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, salt and pepper to taste. Pour this over and around the leg. Serve currant jelly with it.