A modern writer says: "It is remarkable that a fruit of so much excellence as the Apricot, ripening before the best early peaches, should be so little known, commanding as it does the highest price in the market." Inasmuch as I have been quite successful in the cultivation of this fruit, and am willing to add my mite of practical experience for the general good, I propose *to say a few words on this subject for the benefit of those persons who have failed in its culture, and those," also, who are afraid to try, on account of its great enemy, the Curculio. I will first state that I am located on the east bank of the Hudson River, twelve miles below the city of Hudson. The soil on the ridges is a strong loam, with a clay subsoil, containing a very great percentage of lime. This is the favorite soil of the Apricot; the trees grow moderately fast, and make a good, firm growth of wood, that generally stands our cold winters well. Owing to the heavy texture of the soil, the circulation or flow of the sap is not so easily excited by the effects of warm spells of weather, which we generally have during the fall and winter months, consequently the fruit buds remain dormant during these trying spells until the proper time of starting arrives.

This, in my opinion, is the reason the fruit buds of the Peach and Apricot are so seldom winter-killed in this locality. The most trying time for the Apricot, with us, is when in full bloom; at that period we frequently have cold, windy weather, and sometimes frost On referring to my journal, I find the following entries: April 16, 1854, commenced snowing very fast; wind, northwest; snow fell a foot deep; fruit buds of the Apricot just ready to burst. May 7. Apricots in full bloom; cold north wind; made ice, at night, 3/8 ths of an inch in exposed places. Notwithstanding the cold and frosty weather of the 7th of May, all Apricot-trees in sheltered places had a pretty good crop of fruit. Last season (1855), they produced an abundant crop, especially where they stood somewhat sheltered, setting twice as much fruit as they could with safety mature. When the fruit was half-grown, I picked about two bushels off, scarcely any of them showing the mark of the Curculio; as the fruit advanced towards maturity, it was quite evident there was not half enough taken off yet. However, there was no more taken off the trees till the fruit got ripe, but if I had taken twice the amount off, in a green state, that I before mentioned, the crop would have sold for more.

The crop during the past season has not only been gratifying to my pride as a fruit-grower, but has proved eminently profitable considering the labor bestowed. Prom 25 trees, part nine years planted, and the balance planted within the last four years, there were taken 12 bushels of this delightful midsummer fruit, which sold, in the New York market, at prices ranging from $5 to $10 per bushel, the most of them for the latter price. At the time I bought the farm where I now reside, there was an old Apricot-tree on an adjoining farm which was then 30 years old; it was about eight inches in diameter, and 14 feet in height, with a fine, low, spreading head; this tree stood near the south side of the dwelling-house, in a strong, loamy soil, and annually produced for its owner from one to four bushels of handsome fruit. This Apricot ripens at the usual season, is of medium size, and possesses the remarkable quality of coloring up to a handsome straw color some days before it is soft, with here and there a dash of red on exposed specimens; stone small, and nearly free, and not perforate; never cracks or rusts, as do some of the older sorts.

Hardiest of all the Apricots that I am acquainted with, the bark of the tree seldom cracks or gums, unless planted in a damp soil, and in such soil should not be planted, unless well under-drained. This variety is .supposed to have originated here, as it is quite different in appearance and habits from any of the other sorts that I have fruited (and I fruited quite a number). My largest and most productive trees are of this sort. One tree, 9 years planted, standing within seven feet of a building, has produced heavy crops for the last four years; there was, in 1853, one bushel taken from it; in 1854, not quite so much; 1855, one bushel and a quarter. To the nature of the soil, and nothing else, do I attribute the immunity of the Apricot from the ravages of the curculio in this locality; in fact, I consider his labor rather serviceable than otherwise.

In conclusion, I will say, brother fruit-growers, if you have tried to grow this truly golden fruit, and have been disappointed, "try again" is the motto. Some writers say: "Don't plant in warm situations, as on the warm side of a building, or other sheltered site facing the hot sun." This advice may be proper in some places, but it certainly is not here. If your soil is warm and sandy where you wish to plant, dig large holes, and put in a cart load of clay, or other heavy soil, in each hole before planting; then with a wheelbarrow load of good soil, and a few shovelfuls of compost, plant your tree, and, my word for it, you may expect to get some good fruit the third year after planting. The large amount of heavy soil in which the tree stands will not only make a bad harbor for the curculio, but will retard the season of blossoming, which is always desirable. The Apricot should, in all cases, be worked on the plum or almond stock (and be annually shortened in); if worked on the peach, it is generally short lived, and liable to all the diseases to which the peach is incident. By all means, plant in sheltered places if possible, for it is well known that a cold north wind is very destructive to this fruit, when it is in full bloom.

A tight board fence, 7 or 8 feet high, affords very good shelter for the Apricot and Grape, Ac. I made about 30 rods, last fall, in the following manner: A ditch, three feet deep, running east and west, was dug, the land inclining gently towards the east; posts, 10 feet in length, were then put in so as not to obstruct water (the ground being damp, but not wet); the ditch was then made half full of small stones, and filled up with surface soil; string pieces were then put on horizontally, and boards firmly and closely nailed on in a vertical position. A fence of this sort not only drains the land, but breaks off the north wind, and softens the atmosphere for many a rod on the sun side. Apricot-trees can be planted on the sun side within three feet of the fence; they should be cut back for two or three years, so as to form compact and low headed trees.

[We are much pleased with this article, and gratified to record such success with a fruit that baffles the most experienced. And yet there are instances, in our own. neighborhood, which have had sufficient influence with us to induce planting more Apricot-trees every year; so far, our results have been half a dozen good sized fruits per annum. In the garden of J. Francis Fisher, Esq., there are, or were, lately, two specimens of the size of large apple-trees; they produced, annually, many bushels of perfect Apricots that were untouched by the curculio, and yet received no cultivation whatever. If the suggestions of our correspondent are carried out, we may yet hope. - Ed].

Notes On The Cultivation Of The Apricot #1

Just one of those revelations of fact that illustrate what strange, capricious subjects these light-skinned stone fruits are. The Hudson Valley proper, with a few miles up its tributaries, between Pough-keepsie and Sandy Hill, is the only existing natural plum and apricot region I know. These fruits usually grow successfully in that section of country. What the cause, is yet to be shown; climate, soil, and something else, all three put together, probably. In many other places, to my certain knowledge, with ail the care and pains-taking recommended by Mr. Tompkins, a dead failure has resulted in these fruits. Still, I would by no means dissuade any one wishing to cultivate them from trying every possible experiment.