The following is the estimate recently given me by Mr. Rivett for a large span-roofed orchard house, built in the plain manner, as given in figs. 6 and 7:

"An orchard house thirty feet long, twenty feet wide; sides, five feet high; middle, ten feet to ridge; with iron pillars to support roof; oak posts, close boarded, glazed with sixteen - ounce glass; painted twice with anti-corrosion paint, £45. The raised brick borders generally built in houses of this size, are not included in the estimate." I may add that raised borders may be dispensed with if half-standard trees are cultivated, with stems from 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 feet high. The tallest trees should occupy the centre of the house: this kind of house, furnished with nicely-pruned round-headed trees, with straight stems, would have a very orchardlike look, and they would be very productive.

Fig. 6. (End Elevation).

A. Shutters, l foot wide, on hinges at ends. b. Do. do. on each side.

Fig. 7 (20-feet Section).

It is essential that these large houses should stand endwise N. E. and S. W.. or nearly so; for if placed N. W. and S. E., as mine are, owing to the peculiarity of the site, the trees in the north-east border are too much shaded, and do not ripen their fruit well. I also prefer the same position for small span-roofed houses. The height of the above exceeds that which I have described in p. 16, but I am inclined to think it more eligible, for it is surprising to see what fine and even large trees can be grown in pots.

A very good gardener has asserted that peaches and nectarines from bushes are inferior in flavor to those grown on trellises in peach houses;" and that he could produce more fruit in the same space by the latter mode. I can easily imagine a partial failure in flavor; not owing, however, to the system, but to the management. The trees alluded to have not had room or air enough; and, consequently, the fruit has not been high flavored. I have had Noblesse and other peaches from bushes in a pot standing in the full sunshine in one of my houses of the most delicious flavor, while those from trees partially shaded were not good. The peach-house trellis system is not adapted for small gardens; one, or at most two trees, will cover the roof of a house 20 feet by 12; and nothing can be grown under them. Besides this, three or four years must elapse before they commence to bear to any extent; and, above all, it will require a good gardener to train and prune them, for no amateur could bear the fatigue of constantly keeping his' eyes to the sun.

Since the foregoing pages were written, "crystal palaces" have been built. I have written for more humble gardens; but large orchard houses may be built on the ridge and furrow system: still it will require caution, for I am inclined to think that a ridge and furrow house of great width can never be ventilated sufficiently to give flavor to fruit. One of these "palaces" with raised borders, well furnished with peaches, nectarines, apricots, figs, and even pomegranates, in 20-inch pots, and treated as recommended for all other orchard-house trees, would realize an Eastern garden, and bring a. Beds (supported by 4-inch brick walls, built with cement) filled up with compost to mind one of the fruit gardens of Damascus, so vividly described by travellers. In short, I know of nothing in gardening more capable of fully gratifying the two senses - sight and taste. Thus in great and grand places, in lieu of a cheap and simple orchard house, a fruit conservatory, heated by hot-water pipes, may be built, and the trees grown in ornamental vases placed on elevated beds. A few tea-scented and other delicate roses, and spring-flowering bulbs, planted in the borders, would make them gay, and have a pretty effect.

It must, however, be recollected that but very few of what are called conservatory plants can be planted in a common orchard house; for it is necessary that; it should be cold and dry in winter to give the fruit trees their rest. If fire-heat is used, it must only be applied early in spring - towards the end of February - to force the fruit, if early fruit be required, and not in winter, as in greenhouses, to keep out the frost.

b. Paths, 2 1/ feet wide.

c. Collar beam. These collar beams should be 6 feet apart: iron pillars, which may be formed with -inch gas pipes, in a row along the centre, support the roof equally well, and have a lighter and better effect: they should also be 6 feet apart.*

* A lighter and equally eligible mode of supporting the roof is by iron rods (2 inches in cir-cumference) in lieu of collar beams; these must be supported by perpendicular rods, hooked on to the centre and fastened to the ridge board by screws.

I have, however, reason to believe that orange trees and camellias may be planted in the borders with a good chance of success: they should have no water after the middle of October, and about the middle of December some sticks should be stuck in the ground round each tree, and the space between the sticks and the tree filled up with dry hay, and a mat or light woollen cloth (Frigi Domo would answer well) wrapped round the sticks. The mat or outer cover should be taken off by the end of January, leaving the hay, and replaced if severe frost comes on. It would insure success with oranges and camellias planted in the borders, if the house could be gently heated in severe weather, so as to prevent the temperature falling below 26°; this would not stimulate the fruit trees to any extent, and yet would, to a certainty, preserve camellia and orange trees. The most severe frost will not injure tea-scented roses or bulbs, if the house be kept perfectly dry after October.

It is very possible that some who read this may say, "Why not plant the trees in the raised beds, rather than in pots or vases V9 To this I reply, They cannot be kept under,control, unless they are annually lifted and replanted early in November. I had some peach trees which were planted in the raised borders of one of my orchard houses: they bore well; but, in spite of root-pruning, they would grow too rapidly. Now, in pots, the size and growth of the tree may be regulated with the greatest nicety; the annual root-pruning can be done with much facility, and there is no occasion to dig and disturb the borders, which must be done to a great extent to thoroughly root-prune trees planted in them. Indeed, as far as my experience has gone, I can honestly recommend pots, vases, or boxes, for fruit trees in orchard houses or fruit conservatories. In the "Gardeners' "Magazine," vol. ii., page 278, peach trees are mentioned as having been in pots twenty years without being repotted: they had been kept in health and fruitfulness only by top-dressing.

I am, however, inclined to think that peach and nectarine trees, planted as pyramids and bushes in orchard houses, would give great satisfaction to the "poor gentleman" who is his own gardener, for it is only such that can and will fully enter into any new mode of gardening. Peaches, nectarines, and apricots thus cultivated should be lifted and replanted, with a little rich compost, annually, the last week in October: they should each have, when replanted, four or five gallons of water, and the same quantity about a week after: no more should be given during the winter.