This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
Cut the faded flowers of rose bushes, and make cuttings of the stems; they root readily at this season, in a shaded spot, if well-ripened cuttings are chosen. China roses, and their hybrids, that are going out of bloom, should be pruned well down; they will flower again in the autumn. An occasional watering with manure water will extend the flowering season, as well as enhance the beauty of the flowers individually.
Hollyhocks and dahlias must be securely, but neatly staked; remove lateral and weak shoots from the latter, and propagate choice sorts, by inserting cuttings singly in small pots; they will root well in the shade. Plants procured in this manner will be dried off, and the roots kept in the pots all winter. Such roots are more to be depended on next spring, and will grow more vigorously than those lifted in the usual manner out of the borders.
The coral-tree, Erythrina crystagalli, is a beautiful plant as a single specimen. The roots can be annually lifted, and wintered in a dry cellar.
Flower beds and borders should be kept scrupulously neat and clean; hoe all vacant spaces, but do not rake the ground. Stake all plants that absolutely require it, and let it be done neatly, using as few and as short stakes as possible, and tie loosely. Give constant attention to the removal of dead plants, withered leaves and flowers, and remove seed-pods, unless specially required to perpetuate choice varieties.
Keep box edgings neatly clipped and repaired; it can be transplanted at any season, therefore, there is no excuse for imperfections.
Bulbs of tulips, hyacinths, narcissus, Ac, should be planted now; choose rich grounds, and cover at least two inches. A handful of dry sand below each bulb will facilitate their rooting, and a slight covering of manure by and by, will protect them during winter.
Manuring and digging the soil should receive immediate attention. The deeper and richer the soil can be made, the better. It is only by liberal treatment that a lasting luxuriance of flowers can be obtained during the warm and dry weather; and, if the ground is well drained, or otherwise freed of superfluous water, there will be no danger of over luxuriance or imperfect maturity of the plants.
In making additions or alterations in the flower-beds or lawns, much taste and judgment will be required. It is no uncommon occurrence to see what would otherwise have been a beautiful lawn, completely divested of all character by the injudicious introduction of cut beds, and misplaced masses of flowering plants. Beds out out at regular distances over the ground, produce what painters term "want of breadth," and, whether such beds or clumps consist of circles, ovals, or irregular-shaped figures, if placed pretty regularly over the whole, a monotony of appearance will be produced; but introduce these clumps at certain points, with open glades of lawn between; at some places form small designs in the arrangement of the figures; at others only single beds; and the result will be "an effect".
"Distinctive effect" is produced by the introduction of peculiarly shaped beds, fitted ,for certain positions, such as the bends or angles of walks, or connected with the external forms of buildings, so as to exhibit "expression of purpose," a term full of meaning when properly Understood.
A flower garden may be invested with another feature, that of "character," either by the planting of the beds, such as a rose garden, or a collection of flowering shrubbery, etc, or by the introduction of statuary where it can be brought in. The arrangement of the walks will also occasionally give "character;" this, however, is the lowest degree of it, and those who attempt to give character by any peculiar arrangement of walks alone, evince a want of knowledge and appreciation of the beauties of nature.
While but little can be done here for the present, manure and composts may be applied, walks repaired, and a general oversight inducing to cleanliness observed. Both here and in the Pleasure Grounds And Shrubbery, do everything that can facilitate spring operations; dig out and prepare the ground for trees, laying beside each hole, leaf mould or other materials ready for spring planting.
Frames will require regular attention; new linings of hot manure and leaves or litter must be given whenever the temperature requires, and if the weather is cold, wet, or snowy, it may be proper to lay a quantity of dry long litter all round the general lining, which will protect the whole from driving cold rains and snow, and preserve the heat of the bed in a fine growing temperature. Every good gardener prides himself on having now, at least, an abundance of good salad, placed in the frame in November. Cresses, mustard, radishes, and lettuce may be sown in a slight hotbed, and a succession should always be kept up. Asparagus may be forced any time this month for February or March. Take plants of three or four years' growth, and keep the temperature equable, admitting air as often as the weather will allow. »
Herbaceous plants should receive more attention. Verbenas, petunias, and heliotropes, are all very beautiful, but not more so than Dielytra spectabilis, Campanula grandiflora, and C. nobilis, Delphiniums, Dianthus, Digitalis, CEnothera macrocarpa, Lobelias, Mimulus, Penstemon, Phlox, Aquilegia glandulosa, and many others that could be mentioned. These being all hardy, do not require to be removed or replaced yearly. Hollyhocks must not be forgotten; the improved double varieties are very beautiful.
The flower borders should be forked over (not dry with a spade), and, as the free-growing herbaceous plants soon extend themselves beyond due limits, the plants may be slightly reduced. A dressing of guano, at the rate of 400 lbs. to the acre, will invigorate growth. Hardy herbaceous flowering plants have been much neglected in modern flower gardens. In a future number we may give a list of such as are most desirable. The lawn will also be benefited by an early application of guano, so that the spring rains may dissolve and carry it to the roots of the grasses; this will encourage an early vigorous growth, and, in connection with frequent mowing, will form a close turf, able to withstand the scorching effects of long-continued dry weather.
Plants for the flower garden will now be under propagation, and a liberal supply should be provided, based upon the extent of surface to be planted. To avoid labor in potting, and, also, to economize both in the expense of pots and the space they occupy in a greenhouse or glazed frame, the cuttings of verbenas, heliotropes, &c», when rooted, may be planted in shallow boxes, two or three inches apart, in regular rows; and once a week for two or three weeks before planting out in the beds, run a knife in the centre of the rows, so as to sever the roots; each plant will thus have a small square of soil attached, which can be removed entire, and the plants will start as freely into growth as if they had been individually turned out of pots. There is great opportunity for display of true taste in the arrangement of flower gardens. What is termed the massing system, consists in filling entire beds with one kind of plant, or, in-very large beds there may be several distinct patches, but all so distinct and numerous as to be seen from a distance. This kind of gardening is perhaps very appropriate in some situations, but, although we have seen it attempted very frequently, it has never appeared a satisfactory arrangement.
It is only suitable for geometrically-formed gardens, and these gardens are themselves in best keeping when connected with a dwelling; the highly artistio character of a geometrical arrangement, and its various accessories, in the shape of vases, fountains, sundials, and statuary, are displayed to greatest advantage in connection with balustrades, terraces, and objects equally artificial in character. Flower beds, when so situated, partake more of surrounding features when distinct kinds of plants are planted in effective masses; and there is certainly an air of refined and artistic beauty in a garden of this style which is not found in the promiscuous planting of ordinary flower borders. But, on the other hand, isolated flower beds or borders are far more interesting when composed partly of herbaceous flowering plants, perennials, and annuals. The old-fashioned foxglove, lily of the valley, larkspur, and mignonette, snowdrops, and grape hyacinth, are surrounded with so many pleasing associations of old homesteads, that we must question the taste that would disband them forever from our gardens.
Bedding out is now the principal business. The arrangement of the beds in tasteful forms to show well, as well as the placing of plants relative to color, is a work of considerable thought, and too often results in failure, because of too great haste and want of consideration. Do not get the beds larger than your plants will fully fill A small form well filled is better than more breadth and with a bold show of naked soil. Place your brightest colors - as crimsons, scarlets, etc - in the center, and surround with lighter shades. An edging of dark purple around shades of pink and white is also sometimes effective, especially with beds of quite small size. It is important to have the plants well hardened, before placing them in the beds, by careful exposure to the weather, at first by day only, but in the end by night also. Choose dull dry weather for planting, if possible, and have the plants rather dry, for if recently watered they will not turn out as nicely. Water freely when set, and cover the surface with a light mulch.
The Variegated or Striped Japan Maize forms one of the most showy and desirable plants for the center of large beds, or for creating a bold, attractive point in the distance.
 
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