This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
I am well aware that this is a question which no person is able fully to answer; involving, as it does, so many considerations, and so many debatable points, which await a vast amount of inquiry before they can be determinately answered. Such, however, constitutes no solid ground for avoiding an investigation. Our Pomological societies are doing the State some service in this matter. No man, however experienced, but may enlarge his mind by examining the statistical information that their reports contain. I verily had thought that I knew all about the Winter Nielis Pear - a great favorite of mine for years; but I could not but feel that I had acquired interesting information in comparing the various conditions, both above and below ground, which certain exhibitors furnish: added to this, there was the testing of my own opinions as founded on what I had experienced. I do hope that those who continue to exhibit will carefully state a few of the main conditions under which the fruit was produced. No man can put such information to better use than a really good gardener - a man experienced in such things.
There is no spoiling him with crude notions; and, after carefully digesting the whole, he is in a capital position to sum up the evidence, and, as Burns said, to "prent it".
On what conditions, then, does the quality of fruits depend? Let me first state what conditions are inimical to quality in the average of fruits: - The ripening too much hurried; ripening, in some cases, arrested through low temperatures; excess of root-moisture; also of humidity in the air; gross and succulent growths; deficiency of light; a stagnant air through the want of a due circulation; and lastly, the attacks of insects.
Now, these remarks, although applying, in some cases, almost exclusively to in-door fruits, I intend to offer in such a shape as to be common to all.
A forced or hurried ripening, whether occasioned in-doors or out, is in general averse to high qualities. This may be particularly observed in peaches and melons; and is doubtless the reason why fine-looking fruits, at our exhibition tables, frequently do not possess those high qualities which their appearance and kind indicate. We also know, that, in hot climates, many of our fruits become vapid and worthless; but Nature has provided special kinds adapted to the climate. It is here necessary to observe, that an over-slow or retarded ripening is, in some cases, prejudicial; and this is, perhaps, most manifest in some of our pears, which, if kept much beyond their natural ripening period, assume the character of petrifactions in some cases.
Excess of root-moisture is to be avoided. Thorough drainage out-of-doors, and a cautious use of the waterpot in-doors are the means within our reach to avert this evil. Fruit-bearing plants are apt - like many of the animal creation - to prove gluttonous, especially when there is a heavy draw on their system; and in the ripening process, where very high flavor is desired, we do not want too much of the water: - it is more on the high and perfect elaboration and assimilation of the stores of the plants that we have to depend. Nevertheless it may be laid down as an axiom in fruit-ripening, that the foliage must be in a perfectly healthy condition when the fruit is ripening, or undergoing that change which forms a crisis in their history. Thus we find, that if melons - it matters not what kind - have decaying foliage when the fruit is turning for ripeness, the flavor is sure to be deficient, and the eye-part becomes spongy. It, therefore, becomes necessary with all thin-foliaged fruits (which, of course, are liable to sudden and profuse perspirations), to keep up as much moisture at the root as will sustain a healthy foliage.
Too much air-moisture is, of course, not desirable. This; out of doors, can scarcely be avoided; but, in forcing processes, it is under control. It produces an inactive atmosphere, and not only impedes, in degree, a free transpiration, but also a proper admission of light. In fact, the ripening period is no proper time for any undue amount of absorption.
We will come now to succulent growth, as, in most cases, a foe to intensity of flavor. The peach is, at once, a good instance. How is it that we seldom obtain such large and fine peaches from young and gross trees that we do from those arrived at maturity? Simply because the growth, at extreme points, being so exuberant, much of the collateral and subordinate wood is robbed for the sake of this great impulse. Pinching these robbers, therefore, in equalizing the sap, causes the inferior portions to receive a more regular supply. In short, the remarks apply to almost every kind of fruit, especially to those of rapid or impulsive growths. Thus, we know that it is a common practice to stop or pinch pines, melons, cucumbers, etc, all of which are of rapid growth.
Deficiency of light is the next consideration as concerns flavor and quality. It is well known that both flavor and color, in fruits or vegetables, can only be obtained through the influence of a liberal amount of solar light. But not only is flavor in fruits dependent on a liberal amount of light; their size and general character are also particularly concerned in the affair. Who has not noticed the inferior character of fruits, such as apples, pears, and other ordinary fruits, in the interior of badly-pruned or neglected trees?
A free circulation of air is of the highest importance in giving flavor and character to fruits. This, it may be said, more immediately concerns those under glass; inasmuch as the means taken to secure light out of doors will guarantee a free circulation of air. Melons coddled for want of air can never be full-flavored. Indeed, the richest I have ever tasted have been from frames or pits, which had air liberally all night as well as day: they were, consequently, ripened by the slow process. Peaches, too, require abundance of air all the time they are ripening, and they must have time.
Freedom from insects is indispensable to flavor in fruits. Who has known good grapes, melons, peaches, Ac, produced from trees infested with red spider?
I think these together are essentials to the production of first-rate fruit, and without a due attention to them, such cannot be obtained. But, of course, as the foundation-stone, we must have a healthy and well-conditioned root and good kinds. That atmospheric influences - heat, light, air, etc, variously modified and combined - produce varying results in the fruit, can be well evidenced on all sides. We gather Marie Louise Pears from a generous aspect on a wall; the fruits large, finely-skinned, and of a beautiful creamy appearance; we fancy we can almost see into them without cutting. We take a second lot from well-handled espalier, or ordinary tree: they are but two-thirds the size, and their skin a complete coat of fine russet. The first shall be exceedingly fine in texture, but the flesh not particularly rich; the latter less fine in texture, but of a much higher flavor. This at once points to differing atmospheric conditions, the soils being alike. - R. Errinoton, - in London Cottage Gardener.
 
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