This section is from the book "Cyclopedia Of Painting", by George D. Armstrong. Also available from Amazon: Cyclopedia of Painting.
Where the paint is cracked in every direction, forming blocks, triangles, and in fact, every conceivable shape, it is called alligatoring. This comes from a number of causes, but can usually be traced to non-drying undercoats and heavy coats of different mixtures. Ochre or similar slow-drying pigments mixed with boiled oil will very often be found at the bottom of this trouble. Fatty paint or the use of adulterated oil also causes paint to alligator. Such paint is usually tough and hard except where it is well protected and there the undercoats will be found to be tacky and spongy. The only successful way to repaint this surface is to burn off the paint. This is a very difficult job, as the heat softens up the excess of oil and a gummy, sticky mass of paint is the result. This soon gums the knife, also forms a cement over the wood, which is very hard to remove. This is especially true where excessive painting has been done, the paint having been mixed with boiled oil or an excess of japan added, or where the paint has cracked when first applied and paint heavily applied over it in an attempt to fill the cracks, leaving the surface with an excess of oil paint spread over it.
If it is not possible to burn the paint off, it can be painted with fairly good results if first cleaned with a wire brush, breaking the edges of the paint that may have commenced to show signs of peeling and turning out, also removing all the dirt from the cracks, then applying a coat of paint mixed with from a pint to a quart of turpentine to the gallon of paint, according to the elasticity of the surface. Do not apply a heavier coat than is absolutely necessary. Be particular to brush the paint well. Do not have the paint too flat on the protected or more elastic portions of the building, as these parts are very easily affected by hot or humid weather. Do not attempt to rush the work. Allow ample time for the paint to harden, then apply a finishing coat of paint mixed to a good consistency reduced with 1-32 to 1-16 gallon turpentine to a gallon of paint. Brush out well. This will not blister nor pull the undercoats and will make a fairly satisfactory job.
 
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