How To Soften Putty

Slake some quick stone lime in water, and add one-third of the quantity of pearlash, make the mixture about the thickness of paint. Apply it with a brush to the putty on both sides of the glass, and leave it on for a day or so, the putty will then have become so softened that it may easily be removed with a glazier's knife, and the pane of glass may then be taken out.

Soft Putty

This is made of whiting and boiled linseed oil, with white lead in the proportion of one-tenth of the whiting, a small quantity of salad oil is then to be added in order to prevent the white lead from hardening and cracking off, as common putty often does in certain situations.

Softening Putty

When ordinary putty becomes very hard, it may be softened for the purpose of easy removal by keeping it moist for a short time with caustic potash or soda, or if the putty be painted with nitric or muriatic acid it will be softened in about an hour.

Preserving Putty

Good putty is made to harden on exposure, and consequently cans should be kept closed, and a little water, or, better still, linseed oil, should be kept on top of putty in tubs, large cans, and barrels, to prevent a hard crust from forming. A putty that shows no signs of getting stiff or hard after being open and exposed, lacks an important element of value.

Putty For Polished Wood

Take a small quantity of white beeswax, melt it down, and, while liquid, mix with whiting, as it gets thick, keep adding boiled oil until you have it as you wish it, when using it, sheet the wood over solid, let stand until the next day, when you can remove the surplus by using No. 1/2 sandpaper. It is easier and cheaper than the shellac, and can be levelled sooner, leaving nothing but the pores or grain of the wood filled, which is better than having the wood all stained up with the shellac.