Anvil

An anvil is often useful and is sometimes combined with a vise. It should have a flat steel surface and also a tapering, rounded (conical) point. An old flat-iron does quite well.

Axe

This is such a common tool that it needs no description, and is, moreover, seldom required for amateur work.

Boards Or Planks, Laying Exposed

In laying boards or planks to be exposed to the weather, place them (unless they are from the middle of the tree) so as to have the outer side exposed - that is, the side farthest from the heart should be put outside or uppermost. If put the other way the action of the atmosphere, water, etc., will tend to separate and loosen the layers and fibres (Fig. 482).

Calipers

Calipers, which are "inside" or "outside," according to whether they are to find the diameter of a hole or the outside diameter of an object, are very important in some work, as turning, but, though very useful at times, are not nearly as important for the work of the beginner as compasses.

Cutting-Pliers

A pair of these will often be useful in connection with wood-working operations.

Drill

Drills for metal only are often useful to the woodworker, but the one most important for the amateur is the twist-drill. See Twist-drill.

Drill-Stock

There are various patterns of drill-stocks, some of them automatic, for holding drills of different sizes for small holes. Hand drills with revolving handle, like an egg-beater, can be used for small drills. See Bit-brace.

Mirror-Plates

A good way to fasten such articles as mirrors, cabinets, etc., to the wall is by mirror-plates, which you can buy or make yourself of brass. These should be sunk in the wood so as to be flush with the back side of the shelves. After being fitted, they should be taken off during the process of finishing the work.

Nippers

A pair of these will often be of use in wood-working operations.

Odd-Jobs

A very simple combined tool known as " Odd-jobs" can be used as a marking-gauge, mortise-gauge, scratch-awl, try-square, T-square, depth-gauge, mitre-square, spirit-level and plumb, inside-square, and beam-compass. It is well suited to much amateur work, and is cheap.

Oil

Sperm oil is good to use with your oil-stones. Kerosene is good. Lard oil can be used. All thick and gummy oils should be avoided. Never use linseed oil or any similar vegetable oil, as it is not a good lubricator, and gums the stone. Glycerine thinned with turpentine or alcohol is sometimes used, and even turpentine alone. For oil for finishing and painting, see Finishing and Painting.

Pincers

There are various kinds of pincers, pliers, and nippers. A pair of common pliers and also cutting nippers will be very useful.

Rasp

The rasp-only used for wood-is a sort of coarse file, but instead of ridge-like teeth it is studded with projecting points, which tear off the wood more quickly, but also more roughly, than the file. It is extremely useful to remove surplus wood and to get curved objects roughly into shape. One good-sized half-round (or " slab-sided ") rasp will be a great help. See File.

Rivets

In heading rivets hold another hammer or piece of metal, or have someone else do so, against the head of the rivet while upsetting the other end.

Saw-Set

Various contrivances can be bought for setting saw teeth. When you get to the point of needing one you can easily find a variety from which to select.

Spline

A flexible strip, used as a ruler, for drawing curves. See Marking.

Steel-Wool

Long, fine steel shavings done up in bundles can be used instead of sandpaper for some purposes. There are various degrees of fineness. This is good for cleaning off paint and for smoothing curved surfaces, but should not be used until all work with the edge-tools is done, because of the particles of the metal. It can be used for "rubbing down " in finishing.

Strop

A piece of hard, smooth leather on which to strop your tools you can easily procure. It can be fastened on a piece of wood (see page 85). Spread on it a paste of sweet oil and emery, lard oil and crocus powder, or some similar preparation. A pine board on which "air-dust" has accumulated can even be used. See remarks under Sharpening.

Tape-Measure

This article (preferably of steel) is often useful, though not nearly as important for an amateur to buy as many other things.

Twist-Drill

The twist-drill is much better than the gimlet-bit. It makes a good hole, bores easily, is not easily dulled, can be used upon metal, and one kind in common use can be easily kept in order by simply sharpening the ends. There are various patterns. A little care is necessary, however, particularly in hard wood, as they are liable to be snapped by bending. See Bits.

Wrench

A strong wrench is often very serviceable in woodworking operations.