Harness Rack 101


Oak (Chap. III., Par. 29) or any strong wood.

1 pc. 7/8"x2 1/4"xl5 1/2" S 2 S Back.

1 pc. 7/8"x2 1/4"xl4" S 2 S Front brace.

2 pcs. 7/8"x2 1/4"x8" S 2 S Side braces.

1 pc. 3/4'x6 1/2" dowel rod. 12-6d finish nails.

Introductory Statement

If you visit a great many barns you will no doubt find that some people are very careless in their methods of caring for the harness. It is not uncommon to see harness laid on the barn floor, thrown carelessly in a corner or poorly hung on a nail, which is insufficient. Such methods not only cause considerable waste of time in handling the harness, but also bring about unnecessary damage.

The purpose of this harness rack is to provide a simple and easily made hanger which can be fastened to a wall or post and furnish a hanger which will keep the harness in good condition and always ready for use.


Manufacture of Leather in Packing House Industries. International

Library of Technology. Leather; Stories of Industries, Vol. 2, Chase & Clow. Educational

Pub. Co. By-Products of the Meat Packing Industry. Swift & Co., Chicago. Tanning and Preparation of Leather, Champlin's Cyclopedia of Common

Things (p. 425). Henry Holt & Co. Great American Industries, W. F. Rocheleau. A. Flanagan Pub. Co.,

New York. How We are Clothed, Chamberlain. Macmillan Co., New York. American Inventions and Inventors, Mowry. Silver, Burdette & Co.,

Chicago. How the World is Clothed, Carpenter. American Book Co., Chicago. The Farm Wood Lot, U. S. Bulletin No. 276.

Harness Rack

Harness Rack

Suggestions For Original Design

Introductory Statement 103


Introductory Statement 104


Wooden Pins

Introductory Statement 105

No.3 Hooks of Strap Iron

Harness Rack Specifications

The Back Piece

As this material is furnished S 2 S, it will not be necessary to surface it. Select the best side and mark it the working face (Chapter II., Paragraph 2). Plane one edge for a working edge (Chapter I (Mechanical And Shop Drawings)., Paragraph 4). With the marking gauge, carefully gauge the width (Chapter II., Paragraph 6) and plane to the gauge line. Square one end (Chapter II., Paragraph 5). Lay out the length of the back piece, and cut this end perfectly straight. Chamfer the end as shown in the drawing.

The Front Brace

Select the best surface and mark it the working face (Chapter II., Paragraph 2). Plane one edge perfectly square for a working edge (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). With the marking gauge, set exactly as it was when you gauged the back piece, gauge the width (Chapter II., Paragraph 6); plane to the gauge line. Notice that the lower part of this piece is to be cut on an angle. About a third-pitch cut will be suitable for this angle. You may set your T-bevel to this angle (Chapter II., Paragraph 25). Lay out the angle on one edge of the material. With the try-square, square this line across the working face, and lay out the angle on the other edge to correspond with the first edge. Place the material in the vise and carefully saw on the lines. Measure the length shown in the drawing, and form the other end.