The Side And Back Strips

You will probably have to rip these strips from a wider board. If you do, select a working face (Chapter II., Paragraph 2); .prepare a working edge (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). With the marking gauge, gauge the width on both surfaces (Chapter II., Paragraph 6). Rip just outside the gauge lines. Plane to the gauge lines. In like manner prepare all the strips. Note: - In getting out a number of pieces from stock, be sure to prepare a working edge on the stock each time before attempting to lay out the required piece. Cut all the strips the required lengths, as shown in the drawing. Locate the places where the holes are to be bored. The holes for the dowels should not be bored entirely through. The holes for the rope should be bored through (Chapter II., Paragraph 9). Round the ends of each piece, and chamfer the corners, as shown in the drawing. Note that these chamfers do not extend the entire length of the strips, therefore you cannot make them with a plane. Lay them out (Chapter II., Paragraph 8) and cut them with a knife. Smooth with a wood file and sandpaper.

The Dowels

Dowels are to be used for the upright rails between the strips. Cut the required number the length indicated in the drawing. Note: - Dowel rods and small strips can be conveniently sawed in the square cut of a miter box.


Completing The Bottom

After the glue has had twelve to twenty-four hours to harden, remove the clamps and plane both surfaces (Chapter II., Paragraphs 2 and 3). In making this piece the desired shape it would be well first to cut it perfectly square, after which you can easily and accurately lay out the required shape. Bore the holes as required (Chapter II., Paragraph 9). If desired, battens about 1 1/2" wide may be used on the under side of this bottom piece. They will add considerable strength and prevent warping.


Glue the ends of the dowels into their proper positions in the side and back strips. Do not assemble with the rope until the finishing is completed.


With fine sandpaper remove all rough places. Stain the desired color (Chapter IV., Paragraph 54) and finish with two or three coats of shellac (Chapter IV., Paragraph 57). Assemble with the rope. Tie knots on the lower side of the bottom to prevent the rope from pulling out.

Optional and Home Projects Employing Similar Principles.

Playground Swing

1. A very suitable playground swing may be made of small chains fastened to a strong seat board with two eye bolts, as shown in suggestion No. 1. This sort of swing has the advantage of the seat board being held permanently in position. The use of the chain also makes it durable for outside service.

Box Swing

2. A very simple and easily constructed swing may be made of a small dry goods box. Select a box which is made of sound material, and cut it the shape shown in suggestion No. 2. It may be hung with strips of wood or a small rope or chain, which should be attached to cross battens extending entirely across the under side of the box. One pair of ropes or chains, as the case may be, might be attached to the box near the top to prevent tilting over.