Select the best surface of the piece from which the side braces are to be made, and mark it the working face (Chapter II., Paragraph 2). Plane one edge for a working edge (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). Gauge the width, as shown in the drawing (Chapter II., Paragraph 6); plane to the gauge line. This brace is also to be cut at an angle. This may be done after the work is assembled if you choose. At the other end these braces are to be cut square.
Measure and cut the dowel the length shown in the drawing.
Nail the side braces in position shown in the drawing. Put the front brace in its position; nail through the side braces into it, making sure that you are holding it in such a position as to make the bottom end fit snugly against the back piece. With the try-square, test to make sure that the side braces are exactly at a right angle to the back piece. While holding in this position nail through the front brace into the back piece at each edge. Do not nail near the center because the nails will interfere with the boring for the dowel. Bore for the dowels with the bit inclined slightly up. This will give the pin an upward tendency. Notice that the pin extends through the brace and back piece. If necessary you may split the back end of the pin and wedge it to make it perfectly secure. Bore the hole for the screw upon which the harness rack is to hang (Chapter II., Paragraph 9). If you think necessary, you may bore another hole in the bottom of the back piece and thus provide room for two screws. This hanger may be placed on a post or on a flat surface.
Carefully scrape and sandpaper all surfaces. The top outside edges of the side braces should be chamfered and slightly rounded. This may be done with a pocket knife and wood file and finished with sandpaper. This piece of work may be finished with a coat of paint (Chapter IV., Paragraph 52) or it may be stained (Chapter IV., Paragraph 54) and shellaced (Chapter IV., Paragraph 57).
1. A very easily constructed harness rack may be made by boring a number of holes slightly on an angle, and driving in large dowels or wooden pins as hangers. A heavy board may be used for the base, or the holes may be bored directly in a post or beam of the barn.
2. Very substantial hooks may be made out of heavy strap iron or pieces of buggy tire. These pieces of metal should be cut the desired length then have two or three holes drilled near one end. These holes should be countersunk to receive the screw heads. Each piece should then be bent to form the hook, as shown in drawing No. 3.