The Dowels

By studying the drawing you will notice that the boards should be so assembled that the grain is reversed. Carefully lay out the dowels (Chapter II., Paragraph 18); bore for the dowels (Chapter II., Paragraph 13). Cut the dowels the required length. Be sure not to have them too long, as they will hinder the assembling. Glue the dowels into one board, then spread a thin coating of glue on the edges which are to come into contact, being sure that the boards are assembled with their face side up. Make both dowel joints in like manner and clamp securely.

The Battens

Select the best side for the working face (Chapter II., Paragraph 2). Plane one edge for a working edge (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). With a marking gauge, gauge the width (Chapter II., Paragraph 6) and carefully plane to the gauge line. Square one end (Chapter II., Paragraph 5); lay out and cut them the proper length. Smooth these ends with the block plane (Chapter II., Paragraph 5). Lay out for the chamfer (Chapter II., Paragraph 8). Carefully plane to the gauge line. The battens should be fastened on with screws, as indicated in the drawing, or, if preferred, by the dove-tail method, indicated in No. 2 of the suggestions. If fastened on with screws, it is well to have the holes slotted slightly so, if the board shrinks or expands, the screws may slip in the slots and thus not bend the board out of shape.


When the glue is dry carefully plane both surfaces of the drawing board and fasten the battens to the under side. Carefully plane and test the working surface of the drawing board (Chapter II., Paragraph 2). Plane one edge perfectly straight and square (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). With a large steel square square each end and finish with the block plane (Chapter II., Paragraph 5). The surface of the drawing board should be carefully finished with a steel scraper (Chapter II., Paragraph 16) and smoothed with fine sandpaper (Chapter II., Paragraph 17). It should be finished with one or two coats of shellac (Chapter II., Paragraph 57).


If you desire to make a T-square, you may easily do so by following the suggestions given in the drawing. The blades should be long enough to reach across your drawing board and the head should be 10" or 12" long. The blade should be about 1/8" thick and the head about 3/8". The blade and head must be assembled at a perfect right angle, or the T-square will be worthless. The top edge of the T-square must be a perfectly straight line.

Optional and Home Projects Employing Similar Principles.

Molding Board

1. In connection with work in clay modeling and experiments with concrete a molding board is very necessary; such a board will afford a smooth working surface upon which to mix and mold the materials, and will also protect the desk or table tops. This board can be made any size, depending upon the material available and the projects to be worked out upon it. It should be about 1" thick, free from cracks and provided with strong battens on the under side.

Plasterer's Hawk

2. A plasterer's hawk will be found a very convenient article of equipment in conducting experiments with cement and plastering materials; it may also be made to serve a practical purpose about the home or farm. White pine is the most suitable wood for this project. The board should be made about 12" square and need not be more than 1/2" or 5/8" thick; it should be reinforced by having another board, somewhat smaller (perhaps about 9" square), fastened to its bottom side with the grain running at right angles (this will add strength and prevent warping). A cylindrical handle about 4" or 5" long is fastened to the bottom side.