Raked Mouldings. In all cases where a moulding resting in one plane, as crown or bed moulding at the eaves, is to be membered with moulding swung up out of that plane, as up a gable, one of two things must be done to make the surfaces of the mouldings match or member properly at the joint: (1) The moulding at the eave may have its top edge tipped forward until its top edge lies in the same plane as the top edge of the corresponding gable moulding; (2) a moulding with a new face may be worked which will member with the eaves moulding when their reverse surfaces are fitted to the fascia or, in case of bed moulding, to the frieze.
To member by means of the second method proceed as follows: (1) Make a full sized drawing of a cross-section of the moulding, Fig. 98. (2) Draw a number of lines thru the more important reference points of the moulding at an angle equal to the pitch of the gable. (3) Draw horizontal lines thru the points of reference and erect a perpendicular thru these passing thru the back of the mould as A-B. (4) Lay off a line C-D, Fig. 98, perpendicular to the oblique lines. (5) Using the lines A-B and C-D as reference lines, transfer the distances of the various points on the eaves moulding, measured horizontally from A-B, to pitch lines measured obliquely. A curve traced thru these points will give the shape of the moulding required for the gable. Since this moulding would, in all probability, have to be worked up especially for any particular job, this practice is not followed except upon large or important work. Cornices are usually designed so as to avoid such work.
Fig. 98. Laying out Gable or Raked Moulding.
Figs. 99 and 100 illustrate two miter-boxes constructed for use in cutting rake mouldings in gables.
Fig. 99. Miter Box for Raked Gable Moulding Cut at Eaves.
Fig. 100. Miter Box for Plumb Cut of Gable Mouldings.
In making the miter cuts on mouldings of the eaves, the horizontal members, no special box is needed. The moulding will be set on the far side of the box, upside down. The box will have the side cuts perpendicular to the top edge and the angles across the top edges will be determined by the miter of the plate, sill, or corner of the building. On a square cornered building this miter will be one of 45°, 12" and 12" being taken on the square. Two cuts of each kind, but reversed, are made in each box so that the moulding for each side of each gable may be readily cut. On the octagonal building 5" and 12" would be used in laying out the miter, with scribing done along the 5" member of the square.
For the miter cuts of the rake or gable member, special boxes would best be constructed. For the cut of the gable member where it joins the eave moulding: (1) Lay off across the top of the miter-box, right and left, the miter of the plate, sill, or corner of the building. (2) Down the sides of the box lay off the slanting lines as shown in Fig. 99, at angles determined by the plumb cut of the common rafter. (3) Lay the moulding in the box as indicated by the cross-section, Fig. 99, being careful to keep the backs of the mouldings adjusted to the side and bottom of the box. A good plan is to drive a nail or two in the bottom of the box against which the moulding may be made to rest, once the proper position is determined by trial.
For the plumb cut of the gable moulding, (1) lay off lines across the edges of the box as in Fig. 100, using on the framing square the numbers which give the plumb cut of the common rafter. Lay off a right and a left cut as shown. (2) Square these lines down the sides of the box and saw. (3) The moulding will be placed in the box as shown in the cross-section view of Fig. 100, especial care being taken to have the backs of the mouldings adjusted to the back of the box.
Manifestly, one box may contain all these cuts to advantage instead of having three boxes.
These cuts, Figs. 99 and 100, serve in cutting the miters on ends of the gable fascia. A little consideration will make clear the remaining cuts upon ordinary cornice work.
In splicing mouldings, corner boards, etc., a mitered joint is best and should be made so as to shed water from the joint, Fig. 101.