Cutting Out the Skirt in the Material and Lining-to Cut Out the Back Gores-how to Place the Fronts on the Material-cutting the Lining-stitching the Seams of Skirt-adjusting the Darts

To Cut Out the Back Gores. Place the material, double, on the table, and the pattern of the back gore on it, with the edge of the " side seam " along, and 1 inch from, the fold; the bottom of the gore 2 inches from the cut edge.

N.B.-This extra width and length is to allow for turnings, as the pattern was cut the net size.

Pin the pattern to the material, and cut it out, allowing 1/2 inch at the " curve for waist " for turnings, and 1 1/2 on the centre-back. Leave the pattern pinned on.

N.B.-This wide turning on the " back seam " makes it set better.

Now open out the material, and place it single on the table, wrong side uppermost, and place the patterns of the front in the position shown on Diagram 1, with the edge of the right front near the selvedge at the bottom, and 3 inches from it at the top.

N.B.-The centre-front-marked by a faint line on the diagram-must be " on the straight " of the material.

An easy way to ensure this is to fold over the pattern at the crease marking the "centre-front" line; from the selvedge of the material measure 5 inches, and mark this distance at intervals with pins; place the edge of the fold in the pattern along this line of pins, and perfectly parallel to the selvedge.

Open the fold, pin the pattern carefully to the material, and cut it out, allowing 2 inches beyond the bottom edge, 1 inch on the "side seam," and 1/2 inch on the "curve to waist " for turnings, as shown on the diagram. Place and pin the pattern of the left side of the front in the position shown on the diagram, and cut it out, allowing 1 inch on the " side-seam, 1/2 inch on the " curve for waist," and 2 inches at the bottom, for turnings. Do not remove the pins from either piece.

N.B.-The directions for placing these two pieces on the material must be carefully followed, or it will probably be found that the pieces have been cut out for the wrong sides.

Diagram I. Showing position for cutting out the two pieces for the front after the backs have been cut out from the material

Diagram I. Showing position for cutting out the two pieces for the front after the backs have been cut out from the material

Before removing the pattern from each front, run a row of tacking stitches, with coloured cotton, all round the edge of it, to mark for the turnings. " Tailor tack " round the edge of the pattern of the back, as that was cut on the double material; remove the pattern, cut through the fold to separate the two pieces, and cut through the threads of the " tailor tacking," according to the instructions given for " tailor tacking " on page 74, Vol. 1. if the skirt is to be lined, fold the lining in half-the two cut edges together-and place and pin one piece of the back on it with the bottom of the gore about 2 inches below the cut edge, as it is not necessary to turn up the lining as well as the material for the hem, and would make the skirt clumsy round the bottom.

Cut out the double lining by the material, along the side and round the top. Open the remaining length of lining, place it single on the table-wrong side uppermost-and place and pin one piece of the front on it to the best advantage, with the right side of the material uppermost, and the straight side of the gore along the selvedge of the lining. Cut out the lining by the material, along the side and round the top, but about 2 inches shorter at the bottom. Do the same with the left half of the front, then take a tracing wheel and mark through the material to the lining, along the row of tacking stitches denoting the position for stitching the seams. Do the same on each gore. Unpin the material from the lining. The seams must next be fixed.

Place the two halves of the back together -right sides "facing" - flat on the table. Cut a strip of linen, selvedgewise, about 1/2 inch wide and the length of the back seam, and place it over and all along the line for the back seam, and tack it through the double material to prevent it stretching. The other two .seams can be tacked together without the strip of linen, as one side being "on the straight," they cannot stretch.

N.B.-All the seams of the skirt must be tacked together with the material lying flat on the table-not over the hand, or the seams will be puckered.

Remove the threads of "tailor tacking" before the seam is machine-stitched, so that they may not be caught in with the stitching.

Unfold the back, but still keep it flat on the table. Take the right half of the front, and place it on the back piece, with the most sloping side to the straight side of the back, -the right sides "facing"-and with the edges of the "curve for waist" level. Commence pinning the two pieces together from the top. Each pin must be stuck exactly into the line of tacking stitches of the front, and through, and into, the line of "tailor tacking " of the back.

N.B.-The edges of the seam must constantly be turned over to see that the pins are being put through the line of " tailor tacking."

Tack it carefully together by the pins, and exactly on the line. Remove the pins and the threads of the "tailor tacking." Pin, and then tack, the sloping side of the left half of the front to the other side of the back, in the same careful way.

Now try on the skirt, right side out. Pin the top of the centre-back seam to the back of the waist, bring the left side of the skirt round to the front, and pin the top of the line for the "centre-front "-which is just beyond the selvedge-to the front of the waist. Bring the right half of the front round, and pin the top of the "centre-front line " over the left side front line.

Fit the right half of the skirt at the seam, and, if necessary, make a " dart" about 5 inches long over the hips. This dart must be very carefully pinned, and it must be finished off as gradually as possible, so as to prevent any fulness at the point. Remove the skirt, and place chalk marks over the pins, on both sides of the seams, on the right side of the material; and if there is a dart make chalk marks over the pins down each side of it, and a mark across the bottom of it. Remove the pins, and place the skirt flat on the table, right side uppermost. Hold the chalk upright between the thumb and first finger, and perfect the outline of the dart, keeping it to the size denoted by the chalk marks, and to the length shown by the mark across the bottom of the dart.

Fold the skirt in half, right side out, pin it together, and correct the second half by " tailor tacking " through the chalk lines to the under side, being careful to make a small stitch of the tacking at any point that needs special marking, such as the " head " of the dart. Remove the pins, cut through the " tailor tacking," and unfold the skirt. Pin, and then tack, the seams of the lining together-from the top downwards-on the wheel-marks, just as the material was tacked.

Fold it in half, and again place it flat on the table, the material over it, being careful that the material and lining lay smoothly one on the other, and that the seams correspond. Pin them together, and with a tracing wheel mark the corrected lines and the darts through to the lining.

Separate the material from the lining, then pin each dart together on the wrong side, from the top to the point, being careful that the pins are stuck through the line of tacking on both sides. Tack each dart from the top to the point, exactly on the line of "tailor tacking." This tacking must be done neatly, and most carefully and gradually finished off at the point, to avoid any fulness there. Take out the pins and the short threads of the "tailor tacking."

Pin and tack the darts of the lining in the same careful way, through the line of wheel marks. Machine-stitch the darts both of the material and lining, from the top downwards, in order to work the points gradually off to nothing.

Machine-stitch the back and the two side-seams, both in the material and in the lining.

To be continued.