Just as a beautiful woman fails to attract if she is not also the perfection of daintiness and finish, so an ill-groomed dog will yield at a show to one who may score fewer points but who is in the pink of condition and "put down" thoroughly fit as regards coat. There is no exception to the rule that daily grooming is necessary for a dog. For the almost coatless varieties, such as black-and-
Both terriers are the property of T. Tones, Esq. tan terriers, greyhounds, or Mexican dogs, a gentle rubbing with a hound glove is good; for other smooth-coated dogs the same glove, applied more vigorously and for a longer period; for the long-haired or silky-coated toys and smaller breeds special brushes are sold, those with slanting bristles being much favoured. For the rough-haired terriers and large, thick-coated breeds a thorough brushing with a dandy-brush is the thing. Do not stint the time bestowed, and Nature will not stint your pet's coat. Dogs that are carefully groomed and properly fed and exercised seldom require tubbing.
In the case of rough-coated dogs, washing is apt to soften the coat, a serious detriment. When a dog is shedding his coat, if of a rough-haired breed, it is a good plan to assist the operation by gently removing the dead hair with the finger and thumb. If skilfully done, no pain is caused, and the animal's appearance is greatly enhanced. It is essential to understand how to do this if the dog is to be shown; otherwise, more harm than good may accrue. The points of the breed must be" studied, so as to gain the coveted effect. That is why the novice is safer in sending his dog to a good professional handler for this purpose.
There are also most stringent Kennel Club rules as to improper trimming and cutting that he would do well to study. But for the ordinary dog, commonsense will dictate how much help is required in this matter
Should, however, a bath be necessary, then be sure to see that the patient runs no risk of chill. Do not bathe him immediately after a heavy meal. Wash his head last. Soap him thoroughly with a good and reliable soap, and add some mild disinfectant to the water. Provide a constant relay of the very hottest towels-a most important and useful hint this. Rinse every particle of soap out of the dog. Be most careful no water enters the ears, since canker might be the result of neglect; a plug of cotton-wool in prick-eared breeds is a help. Be as quick as you can, consistent with thoroughness. Reward good behaviour with a tit-bit. Dry perfectly with as hot a towel as possible, and keep until dry in a warm room, or take for a brisk trot. As regards the heat of the water used, remember that what is quite pleasantly bearable to you will be painfully hot to a dog, therefore use "warm" water, not hot, and rinse off gradually with cooler, and, if the patient is a sturdy dog, finally with almost cold. Use commonsense as to this last, according to the weather and kind of dog. If you think of showing a wire-haired dog, do not wash the day previous to doing so.
An excellent dry bath can be given by means of rough towels heated in the oven as hot as can be borne, and vigorous friction. A little "blue" in the rinsing water will greatly improve the coat of a white dog, but beware of over-doing it. A dry bath for a white dog can be given by rubbing in whitening or magnesia, or the like, and then brushing it well out. But be sure you get the whitening really out.
A dog's feet should be noticed, and if the pads seem cracked or sore they should be bathed with permanganate of potash and water, or similar fluid, of which there are many on the market, and, if very painful, rubbed with ointment and tied in bags for the night. If the dew claws have not been removed in puppyhood, they should be cut if they seem inclined to grow in, as they often do with old dogs. Some terriers, too, are subject to swellings between their toes; these also should receive attention. If a dog limps, or is constantly licking his paws, see whether there is any foot trouble, and have it seen to, if you cannot manage it yourself. Exercise
Lastly, there is the important matter of exercise. Naturally, the amount required depends upon the breed and the individual dog. The chief point is regularity, as far as possible. Again, sense will dictate suitable times, much as it does for oneself. Dogs, too, are better for exercising on hard roads as well as on turf. Running on grass alone tends to make the feet soft and open, even as nothing but hard roads tends to make a dog footsore. Variety is pleasing, as in other things. I vary the walks of my terriers as much as possible, and try to keep them alert all the time-no difficult matter 1 A walk that is enjoyed is worth two that bore one, dog or man.
Allow room for high spirits, but insist upon obedience. Do not "worry" your dog, but keep an eye upon him, and if you call him, see that he comes, even if you have trouble at first.
Most dogs will scavenge, but check the habit as far as you can.
Puppies are the worst offenders in this respect, and it is advisable, if their walks are taken in a town where not only garbage but poison may lay in their path, to muzzle the offender until he learns better or grows out of his unsavoury habits.
If weather does not permit of the usual exercise, try to replace it by a game indoors. A puppy may be trusted to amuse himself healthily this way, but an older dog may have to be coaxed with a ball or the like. As a rule, a dog should not accompany a bicycle. It is apt to go faster than he can run without injury, and in some cases spoils his figure by making him too wide in front. Brisk walking exercise is the best for the average dog.
A Friendly Warning
A final hint or. two. Be sure that your dog, like a law-abiding citizen, wears his collar with the name and address thereon. This is now compulsory, and, in any case, useful in the event of his being lost. And if you and he would be popular, keep him out of gardens, away from horses' and cyclists' legs, and the next-door cat.