This section is from the book "The American Woman's Cook Book", by Ruth Berolzheimer. Also available from Amazon: The Domestic Arts Edition of the American Woman's Cook Book.
The Amount and Quality of Flavoring Extracts used are very apparent in the finished product. Some of the flavor freezes out, so an allowance must be made for this. The flavor should be delicately suggested rather than too pronounced.
The Amount of Fat in the Cream also affects the flavor. A rich cream has a better flavor than a thin cream.
Salt Added in Small Quantities - not more than one-half teaspoon to a gallon of the cream mixture - serves to give a "rounded out" or deeper flavor.
Ice Cream Should Stand Several Hours to ripen or blend the many flavors of the eggs, sugar, fruit, nuts, chocolate, and other substances found in the product. Each flavor may be distinguished in freshly frozen ice-cream.
If a Colored Product is Desired, only a small amount of coloring should be used. A delicate tint is all that is desired.
Texture is Affected by Whole Cream, egg-white, gelatin and cooked combinations such as milk and corn-starch or flour, and milk and eggs. A smooth velvety texture is desired. Other things being equal, a richer mixture gives a smoother product. A thin cream gives a coarse texture.
Texture is Also Affected by the Manner of Freezing. If the mixture is frozen too rapidly, it will be coarse and have a rough texture, while a slower freezing tends to improve its texture. This smoothness is not entirely due to the rate of freezing, however, but to the amount of whipping or beating which takes place before and during the freezing. If frozen without any beating, the product will be coarse even though made from a rich cream. The air that is beaten into the mixture in freezing produces a light smooth consistency.
A Certain Amount of Expansion is Desirable. If icecream is properly made, the volume increases at least one-third and the product is smoother in texture and richer to the taste than in a cream containing no air. Too rapid freezing prevents this increase of volume.