This is the roe of the sturgeon preserved in salt alone or in salt, pepper, and onions and left to ferment. The best caviare comes from the north of Europe; that made on the Volga, called caviare of Astrachan is preferred by some. It is regarded as a heavy food, difficult of digestion. The flavor is exceedingly disagreeable to an unaccustomed palate, and this has led to the expression, "Caviare to the general," for anything that cannot be appreciated or understood by the people. Caviare is highly esteemed by the Russians, and the most delicate species of the sturgeon are reserved for the royal family. It is classed among the hors-d'oeuvres, or savouries, and is usually served on or with fried toast or croutons, or brown bread, after the soup or fish. It should not be long exposed to the air. If you buy it in the little barrels, divide it into small bottles and cork them tightly, then open only as wanted. If it should become too hard, break it up and work in a little olive oil and lemon juice. This is often the only preparation given it at gentlemen's suppers, where a skilful host, if he prefers, can prepare it for each guest. Sometimes it is served on a side dish with slices of lemon around it, and sometimes with finely chopped scallions or other raw onions.

Caviare Canapes, No. 1

Cut slices of bread quarter of an inch thick, then cut out with a two-inch cutter into rounds. Saute or fry in hot butter on each side without burning, and set away to cool. Cream quarter of a cup of fresh butter, add salt and paprika to taste, and mix with it as much finely minced water-cress as will give it a fine flavor. Chop the cress very fine, then squeeze dry in a napkin and chop again until very fine and dry. Make the butter into balls, and let it become hard. When ready to serve, spread the croutons with the butter, then spread a layer of caviare on top, and squeeze a little lemon juice over, and serve.

Caviare, No. 2

Cut slices of bread one inch thick, then with a pattie cutter stamp them out into rounds. With a smaller cutter stamp the centre two-thirds of the way down. Fry them in hot deep fat until a delicate brown color, drain, and with a sharp knife remove the centre crust. Then fill the centres with a mixture made in the following proportions. Two tablespoonfuls of caviare, one teaspoonful beef extract, one teaspoonful lemon juice, a saltspoonful curry powder, and also of paprika. Put all into a sauce pan and stir over the fire until quite hot, then put it into the croutons. This may be served hot or cold, one to each person on a plate with a paper doily.

Caviare, No. 3

Prepare some croutons from quarter-inch slices of bread, about three and a half inches long and one and a half inches wide, fry, cool, and spread with the caviare. Pound together the yolks of two hard boiled eggs, six boned anchovies, a teaspoonful of chopped capers, a saltspoonful each of mustard and paprika, and two tablespoonfuls butter. Mix and pound until very fine, then press it through a puree strainer, and put it into a bag with a small frosting tube, and use as you would frosting. Use a paper cornucopia if you have no bag or tube. Chop some parsley or water-cress very fine and put it on the corners of the crouton. Cut some hard boiled eggs into halves, lengthwise, and place them in the centre of the croutons, then with the tube fill the egg cavities with the puree.

Or, the egg whites may be sifted, and then the croutons decorated according to your taste, with fancy lines of the puree, the white and the green salad.